The Irkeshtam pass is the most used border crossing between Kyrgyzstan (Osh / Sary Tash) and China (Kashgar). The other border crossing from Kyrgyzstan into China is the Torugart pass, which became more convenient in 2024 – we can see more people crossing there in the near future.
Tajikistan’s crossing with China, the Qolma Pass, is another nearby option.
Many people manage to cross between Kashgar and Osh in one long day, but it is not certain, so stock up on food (there are some dining options at the border, though). The Irkeshtam pass is busy year-round.
The transport situation was stable for years but has become more volatile again in 2024. Getting a series of shared taxis / being pushed in the first available truck or car was the usual way for a long time when coming from China.
However, the bus service Osh – Kashgar – Osh has started running again a few times a week and Chinese border guards much prefer you to take this option. For travelers, though, this is less comfortable, slower and less scenic. There is also local politics and corruption involved, which means the bus might not leave on the planned day because border guards on the Kyrgyz side won’t let it through.
It’s best to do it with a mix of taxis rather than with the bus, we think, but everyone’s experience is different, so it is difficult to sum up.
We recommend you read (and perhaps post) some of the reports on the forum for China to Kyrgyzstan, or Kyrgyzstan to China.
Table of Contents
Opening hours and border closures
The border operates year-round, but with long closures during Chinese and Kyrgyz public holidays. We recommend you read up about Chinese border closures. For a summary of other issues facing travelers, both at the border and once in Xinjiang, see our Xinjiang travel guide.
The Kyrgyz checkpoint at the pass operates officially from 9am to 11am and 2pm to 6pm, Monday to Friday, but it is said they let people in round the clock (especially if you are with someone who knows the guys).
The Chinese borders – the Ulugqat one as well as the factual one – work from 10:00 to 19:45 with a break from 13:00 to 16:00 Beijing time. Best timing is to leave Kashgar at 10 or earlier. If you are coming from Kyrgyzstan, it’s going to be challenging to get there before 13, best to aim to be there after 4pm.
In China, the immigration checkpoint is not at the top of the mountain, but instead 140 km inland at Wuqia/Uluqqat 乌恰 (Gmaps) Customs in Chinese is 口岸 / kou an. Between the mountain top checkpoint and Wuqia and then to Kashgar, several additional checks exist.
Extra tips
The whole road from Osh to Kashgar has been rebuilt in 2013 and is in a good state. You can exchange RMB into som or US$ and vice versa at the border. Hide your knife very, very well, or it will be confiscated. If your phone doesn’t have eSIM functionality, it’s useful to download a Chinese dictionary on theyour phone so you can use it without internet.
In the unlikely event you are driving yourself, you can have a look at the Irkeshtam self-driving forum thread.
From Kyrgyzstan to China
Osh to Irkeshtam takes 4 hours by car, add another 2 hours if you are taking the local bus to Sary Tash and hitchhiking to the border. A bus from Osh leaves daily for Sary Tash (not in winter). The bus continues to Sary Mogol.
You would then need to find transport from Sary Tash to the old Chinese immigration. Shamurat (+996 (772) 227-794) of SarySould guesthouse is recommended as a fixer and driver who can get you through quickly. Once past the border, some people recently have had an easy time getting to Kashgar, others absolutely not.
Do read some recent forum posts on going from Kyrgyzstan to China.
The direct bus from Osh to Kashgar leaves on Wednesday at 5am from Beijing Hotel. Or maybe not.
From China to Kyrgyzstan
Shared taxis / hitchhiking
Kashgar – Wuqia/Ulugqat: Locations have been moving a lot. You can get a direct taxi to Wuqia from your accommodation, for shared taxis the latest location we noticed is Yongcun parking lot. As before though, people start to show up only after 9am Beijing time. 2h drive to Wuqia 乌恰 (Ulugqat) customs 口岸 (kou an).
At the immigration, you are being pushed towards taking the bus. Perhaps a good option is to go on a day the bus is not driving to avoid this. Truck drivers are no longer allowed to take passengers, so you might have to wait a while to find a car/cars willing to take you. It’s 2 hours to the Kyrgyz border.
Once you clear all the passport checks, you need to catch a transport on the Kyrgyz side towards Sary Tash or Osh. It should be easier than in China. You can also use the services of Shamurat (see above). More expensive but you get an English-speaking guide who will make scenic stops.
By bus
The bus is not comfortable, might be very delayed depending on other passengers or the border guards, but it will get you there. The most recent terminal we have heard about is this one (OSM), opposite side of the railway and City Bus Station. This could change.
Accommodation, food and currency exchange
There is a hotel in Wuqia near the bus stop if you arrive late. There is also a hotel in Umqia. Reviews are welcome.
In Sary Tash, you can find plenty of accommodation. There is a small guest house and cafe in Irkeshtam next to the Kyrgyz check point where one can spend the night.
When you enter Irkeshtam, there is a hotel on the left, about 100m off the road. You can also ask one of the restaurant ladies, who will let you stay in one of the empty containers for 100 som per night per person. These reek of frying oil and are frequented by night owl truckers who have drunken conversations that continue late into the night.
If you prefer to stay in Nura (5 km before Irkeshtam), then Guesthouse Nur is a popular address. We have also heard of people camping near the river on the left hand side before crossing the bridge to Nura.
At the border control, there is now food being served on both sides (the chicken gets good reviews). There is also a mini market on the Chinese side to spend your last RMB. Money exchange is there as well.
Currency exchange
There is no currency exchange until Ulugqat (not even in Irkeshtam). Turn right just after the final passport check in Uluqqat which is located just before an intersection, then pick one of the small convenience stores on your right, they will exchange Som and Dollar.
Cycling Irkeshtam Pass
Petrol for a fuel stove (benzin) can be bought in a small village in Kyrgyzstan a few km before the border (in Xinjiang this is difficult to come by). All updates in the cycling Irkeshtam forum topic.
Once past the Chinese border, you cannot cycle until Uluqqat. A taxi to Uluqqat for you and your bicycles costs 300-400 yuan.
To get into Kyrgyzstan from somewhere else, see the other Kyrgyz border crossings.