Backpacking Iraq

[blacktree]

Hello, I am planning to visit Iraqi Kurdistan and "Federal Iraq", starting from Erbil (Kurdistan Iraqi). I am from Germany.

Both "countries" are now offering e-Visa. If I get the visa from both countries before my trip, should I be able to cross the border by land?

[alexchan]

I'm making a second visit to Iraq, this time focusing on Federal Iraq. One part of the journey will be from Baghdad to Samarra to Mosul. I know that foreigners aren't allowed to overnight in Samarra.

That means two options:

(A) Baghdad - Samarra - Baghdad, as a day trip. Next day, travel Baghdad - Mosul.
(B) Baghdad - Samarra - Tikrit (or Mosul if not too late).

Can anyone advice how practical option (B) will be? Especially in terms of checkpoints (whether passports are held there), availability of taxis, and hotels in Tikrit.

I will be travelling with one small backpack which I can lug around while sightseeing breifly in Samarra.

THANKS.

[Erikkkk]

I am thinking about visiting Iraq end of april. Maybe flying to Baghdad or Erbil and returning from Kuwait. I will investigate but I was wondering if anyone has visited recently or has any other experiences or tips too share. Thanks

[I35TX]

Didn't visit too recently (visited in late 2022), but even back then things felt very calm. I backpacked all around the Iraqi Kurdistan region, entering via Iran and taking a shared taxi first to Suleymaniyah and then to Erbil. I then rented a car In Erbil and spent time exploring the areas between Erbil and Duhok driving solo in the rental car. Felt safe at every moment, and the checkpoints in Iraqi Kurdistan were very polite and mild.

I was able to get a visa on arrival (bring ample cash) at the Iraqi Kurdistan / Iran border, but at that time, with such VoA, I was limited to areas not in Federal Iraq. However, wanted to bring to people's attention that in another thread people were talking about how the VoA's have been unified and now apparently people are reporting being able to explore all of Federal Iraq even with a VoA they get at the Iraqi Kurdistan borders!

As for SIM card, was able to get it easily in Sulaymaniyah. I was also able to change money in Sulaymaniyah as well, while my US Dollars worked well enough to get me on the shared taxi from the border. Only downside backpacking in my opinion is the relatively high price of hotels, and the fact that many aren't bookable online. In Erbil I was sort of forced to search around and book a room in person after finding it on Google Maps. Cash is also widely used rather than credit card, but definitely wanted to report that credit cards are accepted for places that take on larger purchases. For example, for my rental car, I was easily able to pay for the rental and also the deposit via my credit card with no issues in getting back my deposit or anything.

[Schraverus124]

I am thinking about visiting Iraq end of april. Maybe flying to Baghdad or Erbil and returning from Kuwait. I will investigate but I was wondering if anyone has visited recently or has any other experiences or tips too share. Thanks

Hello Erikk, I just came back from just this trip. I flew into Baghdad and flew out from Kuwait. Everything is very easy and I've felt very safe everywhere. I've done a mix of couchsurfing and just showing up at hotels. I haven't been north but met people that had been and they told me everything there was fine too. Prepare your passport at checkpoints, be kind, learn 2 words arabic and the soldiers will leave you laughing before giving you trouble. Cannot recommend Iraq enough.

The Kuwait border was easy, there's people that try to tell you you need to cross by car but if you just start walking you'll get a long way quite easily and don't need their overpriced taxi. Kuwait side was easy too, just need to wait for a 1KD bus. The Evisa side took max 20 minutes. I hitchhiked from kuwait border to Kuwait city as there's only 1 way to go so everyone goes the same direction.

Biggest recommendation I have in general is to visit the marshes and Najaf, I think the 2 most impressive things I've done on the trip. For Baghdad use Careem. Take loads of USD cash as you'll get a better rate then ATM's and try to find people to hangout on couchsurfing even if not hosting it can be very nice.

anything else just Dm me but I highly recommend going

[Erikkkk]

Thanks @I35TX and @Schraverus124, your replies helped me convince my travel buddy to go with me. I got insurance sorted.

I guess I can ask some questions here, to keep everything in one place, instead of making a new topic?

Well first: would renting a car and self-driving be a good idea? If yes, ideal for us would be to fly into Erbil, drive around Kurdistan (4-6 days), visit Mosul. From there drive to Baghdad, I guess follow the 1 to Hatra and then the Tigris itself. Do not spend the night in Samarra, but in Tikrit.

Then a few days Baghdad (3?), visit Taq Kisra during those days.

Follow the Euphrates to Basrah. Visiting Karbala, Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, Hillah, Najaf, Uruk, Great Ziggurat of Ur, Marshes and finally arrive in Basrah after 3-4 days.

But then... in Jordan we picked up the car rental guy in a city, drove to the border together and went our own ways. Perfect. Have to investigate if this is possible, but could not find anyhting atm. Even just returning a car in Basrah seems difficult. Kuwait would be nice to explore for 1-2 days and to avoid driving back to Baghdad, but no biggie if we skip Kuwait.

The other option is drive back along the Tigris to Baghdad. But none the poi's found so far are on that route... not sure why?

Any places/regions to avoid? I did travel quite a lot but not in a country like Iraq. Self driving Jordan or taking the daytime train in Egypt is about it, so I do like to be prepared.

And why are there no daytime flights?! Both in- and outbound seems to be during 01:00 - 03:00... just wondering...

[Clabbe]

Just remember that you need to sort your Kurdistan visa first, new rule that you have to apply online first, you can no longer get VOA.
Second, you will also need to get visa for Federal Iraq (Kurdistan visa is not valid for Federal Iraq but opposite is valid)
Third, not all rental agencies in Kurdistan will allow you to take the car into Federal Iraq

[Erikkkk]

Thanks for the heads-up about the VOA. I also asked about it here viewtopic.php?p=62116#p62116 (you could reply there if you want), but doesn't a Fed Iraq visum would suffice? But I guess I have to have it physically in my passport when arriving in Erbil.

I did find a rental company in Erbil which allows to return the car in Baghdad or Basra (https://alhaydar.ejaferp.com/)

[Clabbe]

I did register on the Iraqi e-visa site and was gonna apply for a visa there.
Then I ran into several problems as you do not have the option to choose Tourism as a reason for the visa on the webpage..
So I will either go to the local embassy to get it (seems to be cheaper as well) or get the 80USD VOA in Baghdad..

[Clabbe]

And to update this thread as well.
Since 1st March you can ONLY get a eVisa for Iraq if you are one of the countries allowed for it.
Embassies will NOT provide you with a visa.
The new total cost for the eVisa is 168USD (including a 60 days mandatory health insurance that cost 55USD and Iraqi bank fee of 5.5%)

To get the eVisa you should click on the Visa on Arrival text on first page, no need to register as that is for tour agencies.
Use a VPN when paying as the site is bugging quite a lot if you are on a regular connection.
Visa is issued within 48hrs, most reports to get their visa within 6-12hrs, mine took 21hrs and I heard of one person who got hers after 43hrs.