Report: Train from Tashkent to Nukus

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Scribetrotter
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Report: Train from Tashkent to Nukus

Post by Scribetrotter »

In case anyone is masochistic enough to want to experience this 22-hour ride... I've just crawled off it. It could have been much worse... it's really not too bad as long as you don't mind wild shaking and absolutely nothing to do - or if you speak Uzbek or Russian, in which case you can befriend people easily. There's a restaurant car but it's more for sitting once the bunks have been opened up (7pm!!!! and all morning) and for drinking tea. Dinner is brought to your room (plov) but you can have breakfast, two perfectly fried eggs with bread, in the restaurant car. The scenery is lunar - most of the morning goes by in flat, monotonous scrubgrass. The occasional hill appears, then scurries away.

The toilets are... developing country train toilets. And my advice is get a bottom bunk if you're in a room of 4. In a room of 2, they only use the bottom bunks. There is no ladder to get to the upper bunk, except for a strange bit of ladder hidden against the wall - you spring it open and try as you may to get up. But in the middle of the night someone on the bottom bunk will bang his foot on it and shut it - and you're stuck upstairs.

Bring tea and a mug: each wagon has its own sort of samovar.

Enjoy! And to buy tickets, I went through a travel agency after pulling my hair out trying to reserve online...
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irishmcbride
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Re: Report: Train from Tashkent to Nukus

Post by irishmcbride »

I did the same journey, Tashkent to Nukus, last month, but sadly no restaurant car on my train. Had to make do with Bread and all the beer I could carry on board.

As an aside, one of things I spotted somewhere about an hour or two outside Nukus was what looked like a I giant head of Lenin carved onto a small hisllside. Both times heading first west then east a couple of days later I couldn't get a good photo of it, but if someone knows what it is I'd be eternally grateful!
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steven
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Re: Report: Train from Tashkent to Nukus

Post by steven »

We did Tashkent - Urgench 2 weeks ago. Standard Central Asian train ride, except for the restaurant car. I will update the train pages as Scribetrotter still seemed a bit surprised at the conditions...:-) It is of course nicer if you can speak the language and have a chat, but even otherwise, I enjoy the slow pace. Always nice sunsets as well. I find it perfectly acceptable.

We took the luxury SV option (2 beds) but the beds were narrower than usual. I am quite sure these were standard sitting benches converted to sleeping bunks.

Anyway, easy-going overnight ride, AC worked, even arrived on time, which seems rare in Urgench.
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steven
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Re: Report: Train from Tashkent to Nukus

Post by steven »

Oh yeah, that Lenin...honestly, haven't seen it yet and don't have my books on me. Will let you know if I find out.
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