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Lenin Peak: Solo climbers & partners

Posted: Wed May 29, 2019 8:55 am
by pflynt
Im looking to attempt to summit Lenin Peak July or early August, and would rather not do it solo. Are there any other solo mountaineers that want to attempt this? Ive done high altitude and snowy peaks, but just not solo. I would rather not hire a guide as this is not a technical peak at all.

Or if anyone has attempted solo, can give some insight?

Many thanks,

Patrick

Re: Lenin Peak - Looking for a Climbing Partner

Posted: Wed May 29, 2019 4:18 pm
by Julia
Hi.

Not sure if I can help but here some ideas.

If you're planning to go there I guess you have experience in using safety tools and know how it feels at around 7000 m high. Also I guess you checked the best time for hiking in that area to have more days of good weather.
So I'll skip all that and just add some details.
Solo hiking is technically possible if you're lucky and go during high season.
The most dangerous part for a solo hiker is before so called Skovorodka. There are lots of visible and invisible cracks there. Usually 3-5 hikers get tied with ropes and hike like that. For that part it's better to join some group to hike together in ropes.
During high season it's a low chance to fall in a crack so can try to do it on your own. It's a matter of luck anyway. There are cases when hikers were about to fall.
There are other dangerous parts, for example, near so called Nozh.
If you hike alone use an ice axe instead of trekking poles.
It's annoying but it'll save in case of sliding down.
There are a few other dangerous parts with cracks and slippery steep parts.
I mentioned some details of the classic trek to the top from the North side. It's the most popular so I guess you're going to take that one?

Although technically solo climbing looks possible I've read only very old reports of solo hikers. And they mentioned that they joined other hikers on parts with cracks.
Landscape and conditions could change since then.

Btw, a few topics below someone mentioned that going to climb solo this summer. Maybe you can make a team.

Re: Lenin Peak - Looking for a Climbing Partner

Posted: Thu May 30, 2019 2:31 am
by pflynt
Hi Julia,

Thanks for the detailed message. Yes the North route is what I have been planning. I agree the Glacier and crevasses are my biggest concern. So you think it's possible to make my way to camp 1 and find a team to rope in with, trekking up to camp 2?

Cheers

Patrick

Re: Lenin Peak - Looking for a Climbing Partner

Posted: Thu May 30, 2019 4:22 am
by steven
Last year I met a solo climber. He was very experienced though, used to guide trips to Lenin Peak.

Re: Lenin Peak - Looking for a Climbing Partner

Posted: Thu May 30, 2019 2:18 pm
by Julia
pflynt wrote:Hi Julia,

Thanks for the detailed message. Yes the North route is what I have been planning. I agree the Glacier and crevasses are my biggest concern. So you think it's possible to make my way to camp 1 and find a team to rope in with, trekking up to camp 2?

Cheers

Patrick


Hi Patrick

I talked to a guide who's been working on Lenin peak for the last 3 years.
He said he saw solo climbers there.
Couldn't estimate probability of joining other hikers though.
But he suggested to contact travel companies that organize trekking there and discuss if they can provide only safety support.
You do all trek independently. Only the part from camp 1 to camp 2 you join a commercial guided group and pay for that only.

It can be a backup plan in case don't find a team to join.
For instance he recommended this company.
https://asiaoutdoor.club
It's a "branch" of famous Aksai travel.

If you go during high season there should be many hikers there.
But other groups can have different speed, attitude, etc.
Not everyone is open to take a stranger with them.
I don't know what the real chance to find climbing partners in the base camp. I just found out from the reports that some hikers managed to join others.
I believe you need to be communicative to have more chances. And better to go during the busiest season.
Worth to try but not 100% guaranteed.

Re: Lenin Peak: Solo climbers & partners

Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 3:18 am
by steven
Locking this thread.

If you want to find partners for climbing Lenin Peak, make a post in the KG travel sharing forum: viewforum.php?f=28