Climbing Peak Chimtarga

[Julia]

Mistype, correcred.

Kazbek had a few routes, including 3B category for experienced climbers.
Tourists mostly do the easiest route 2A.
Should have asked before which route the topic starters took.

[Julia]

Markus,

Although officially Energia is described as 2B, some climbers refer it as 3A.
Depending on the conditions it can get more difficult.
And Chimtarga is more dangerous.
Anyway, I hope you'll make further research and estimate the risk.

[mazeno]

> we have experiences in rock climbing with routes UIAA VI-VII.
rock climbing cannot be compared to alpine grade.
messner's diretta on marmolada cannot be compared to south pillar of shkhara (uiaa VI+ formally same as rus 5b).

ok, maybe in another way.
if someone claims his rock climbing as a point (an argue) of experience compared to mountaineering i'm afraid he does not very well know what he is talking about. so maybe it is better to him to hire a guide. more safe.

[Markus]

Mazeno,

I never said, that my experience is 6B or rock climbing is comparable to mountaineering. But if I can climb UIAA VI-VII, I`m able to climb rock section in mountaineering III-IV. That`s I wanted to say. Maybe my English is too bad...

[mazeno]

markus, for me it follows from your post that you are more a tourist than a climber (i was climbing in the mountains for more than 25 years, also - especially rather? - in winter, including solo, routes up to TD/ED, in different ranges, including himalayas and karakoram, so for me it is enough to exchange some words with an interlocutor to have an idea about someone's standards and skills). i'm not to degrade of you, i just want to say not to search on any forum any advice on climbing even easy mountains.
just only looking at the pictures - climbing a mountain like zamok or chimtarga is not a weekend excursion, even if they are technically easy. and more people die on relatively easy lenin peak than on much more harder ismail somoni (former pik kommunizma). more people die on classic route on mt blanc than on brenva face.

[Markus]

i'm not to degrade of you, i just want to say not to search on any forum any advice on climbing even easy mountains.

Maybe you have better options. I don`t have a guide book or a detailed route description for Chimtarga & Co. I have the book "Trekking in Tajikistan" from Jan Bakker. There is a short description for a side peak of Pik Engels, a unnamed mountain (6.075 m). Do you now this peak and the route. Is it possible for me as a tourist?

Markus

[mazeno]

markus, it is not a problem of having no topo.
if your experience is big enough you can search even for an unconquered peak in a remote uncharted area.

---
talk to people who where there, to experienced climbers, especially talk over the pictures, topos etc. not to unknown people on the net (they are always wearing some kind of mask, and i'm not an exeption), to someone in person.
collect (and verify) every information on the theme, buy and read books. many books, not just a guide or a blog.
get more experience.
climb, climb and climb, day by day more and more difficult routes, more and more in bad conditions (if you get experience how to operate in bad weather you get the better start point in good conditions, harder routes in smaller mountains give you 'reserve' supply in greater mountains). but don't start from the bigest things. ben johnson had not beaten 100m/10sec just right away. it was long and hard work.
that's my way.