Torugart pass crossing Q&A

[steven]

We welcome all your questions and reports about the Torugart crossing below.

We gather all travel intelligence in the Torugart crossing travel guide article.

[samsung]

Did a quick road trip Bishkek-Kashgar-Osh with flight back to Bishkek rhis month.

Local Bishkek driver dropped me in Naryn Sunday 15th of Sept. Intourist was 800 som, 1000 with BF. Working wifi.

Following day used local driver to CN border. 6500 som. As long as you have CN visa no need for border permit.

Left 0630. 5 min stop at first KG border zone barrier. Then some 30 min at KG border passing 300 hundred trucks after 3 days closure. Arriving at CN gate 0930, opening at 1030 ish. First one there. Starting filling up No passing before your CN guide shows up at Torugart. A RTW motorbiketeam of 12 bikers were the only ones who managed to pass before lunch break. I passed as the next around 1400. Caught up with the bikers 5km down at the first checkpoint, as they had loads of red tape. I travelled solo, with burner phone only and no luggage at all, making it all quick. First one to arrive in Kashgar that day in time for a great Uighur dinner by old town some 18ish+.

Contrary to Erkeshtam where you can cross wth no arrangements you must have a a prearranged guide at CN side at Torugart. 2 independant bikers had been stuck in between borders for 1 and 3 days (Swiss and Russian), and as well a german couple arrived making the stranded group 4- Last I heard when I left was that the border officer tried to help with some local guides to arrange the borderzome permission and guide. It looked good, but the same officer stasrted by saying impossible earlier on, si it remains to be seen. Not a situation I would put myself in. Given the remoteness and weather, as it started snowing on spot while waiting.

Exiting at Erkeshtam was a breeze. Left Radisson Kashgar 0630 KG time (and local time, while they howver officailly use Beijing time 2 h ahead). Checked out of CN precisely 1110, where lunch break starts 1130. With a non pro pick up he had to waut for me at the border zone gate about 18 km from border. From CN exit where I was the first I walked about 2-3 km to KG main passport control. The local taxi mafia claimed 1000 som to take me to last gate. They said my pick up should pay so not to worry. I declined started walking and offered 500 som. It came down to 700, and I offered 600 som last offer which was accepted. The Uzbek driver waiting for me drove like a maniac. Worst Ive ever had. He and his english speaking imam buddy, had to despite this driving stop for prayers at a local mosque. Got to Osh 17ish for some great sashlik, stayed private, and flew back to Bishkek the next day.

Main lessons are make sure your drivers can go to last gate at both sides, have guide in CN for Torugart (def makes Erkeshtam easier as well), and try to make the CN lunch break. My guide said going out he normally made it with small groups. Reason he was late on meetup was allegedly some power/computer issue at main customs . These hickups occur, and I talked with other guides during the 4h wait with different stories.

[samsung]

Main thing was that they only checked my cell phone briefly at main customs upon entering. No spyware, and according to my guide they stopped doing that 1 month ago after complaints.