Homestay nights vs Tent nights along the Pamir highway (Wakhan valley)

[jvjjjvvv]

Hi all,

If circumstances allow, I plan to cycle along the Pamir Highway with a friend starting around early August. In theory we would only cycle from Dushanbe to Murghab, taking the Wakhan valley detour. Then once in Murghab the idea would be to ride on some transport back to Dushanbe (I hope that won't be super hard, considering we would need to take back the bicycles...).

I am now looking for sleeping bags and I was wondering, on this route, just how often one needs to sleep out in the open (meaning, just how often there are no homestays along the way), specially at the very high altitude areas because that's where the cold temperatures are a concern. Assuming a standard duration for this bicycle trip (maybe like 15 days, assuming 80-100 km rides every day?)...just how often there are no homestays?

I'll probably end up buying some pretty expensive sleeping bag, something light and ready to withstand temperatures slightly before zero degrees, just in case. But I'd still like to have a rough idea of how often I'll likely end up using it, specially at high altitudes.

[jvjjjvvv]

PS: General tips about apparent temperature while cycling would also be welcome. I've read all the basic information but I am not very sure what to pack exactly if I want to carry minimum weight and at the same time be ready for both strong heat and strong cold. Along this route, in August, how often is it really cold (in the sense that you should be wearing something like a thermal t-shirt, etc)?

[Atkudabrat2]

Hi!

August will be the Best month temperature wise.
If I were you I would not bring a tent nor sleeping bags.You should save the money of buying an expensive sleeping bag and use that money to give it away for your future hosts (homestays,guesthouses or locals hosting you)

The pamir highway can be cycled all the way from Dushanbe to Osh (Murghab in your case) without having to sleep outdoors nor camping even if taking the wakhan corridor detour (during a summer time aka your case)

The hardest part to find a place to stay might be the beginning from Dushanbe to Qalai Qumb (there are 2 possible route to take..the easiest and most travelled is through kulob)

From there (qalqi khumb) you are in the pamir and anywhere someone is living they will be able to host you..please leave and pay and average of 100-150somoni per person per night (10-15usd) which is an average price for simple accommodation plus a feed or two (in the pamir)

It is important to leave a payment even if not asked for or if refused hand to hand (leave it in the room you stayed sort on a table)
There should be enough guesthouses and homestays (different prices might apply) already mentionned in Google maps or maps.me for you to find out where they are located if

If you have a particular section where you don't know where to sleep let me know and I will tell you where you can find a place

[jvjjjvvv]

Thanks, I actually didn't think there would be options to stay indoors all along the way. I think I'll bring a sleeping bag anyway because it seems safer, but whenever possible we'll stay with people. And yes, I intended to give them money always. I wasn't sure what to do in the event that they insist they don't want it, but I think I'll follow your suggestion.

[trikolka]

please note that between Wakhan valley and M41 junction near Alichur, if you choose to go through Khargush pass, you will have more than 130 km without any village. And it is not so easy to ride more than 50 km per day in this region : it is a rough track, and the effect of altitude is not negligible.

Apart from 2 borderguard posts, there are only a couple of distant shepherd shelters, often unoccupied because livestock move, and full of dung because livestock have been there. Night are chilly at 4000m, there is wind every day, and you may have a thunderstorm. Now, if you go without a tent and you are in a thunderstorm, I think tadjik soldiers or shepherds would help you... if they happen to be nearby. But they will not understand why you did something so insane, when you could easily have a tent...

The road between Murgab, Karakol and kyrgyz border also has 2 relatively long deserted sections, but if you go back to Dushanbe you will probably skip this section.

[jvjjjvvv]

Thank you, very specific. We're carrying a tent indeed (my friend is, not me, but the idea is for the both of us to use it). I'll remember what you said about the Khargush pass, as it's definitely on our route.

[couchpotato]

Below 2000m(not so cold) camping outside you can do without the rain fly if the weather is dry. You can see the night sky. The Milky Way is at the right place and very clear because there is very little light pollution. The starry sky is just amazing.

[Johannes S.]

I fully agree. Just returned by bike and I only needed the tent between Langar and Alichur. But the road towards Khargush is so horribly bad and tough, I decided to jump on a taxi on the second day anyway…
Also, between Murghab and Karakol I did not see any homestay sign or a village. That might be tough as well.

[StephParis]

Johannes, if I understand well you've to Karakol... and then ? You went up to the border, back to Murghab or maybe you found an other way ? As you've just returned, you have valuable first hand information about the situation in Tajikistan

[jvjjjvvv]

Hello! One extra question (might be a very ignorant one): these homestays have electricity, meaning a socket where a phone can be charged? All? Some? A few?