Winter in the East Zerafshan Valley

[cat_hag]

Just back from Tajikistan and planning the next trip. I have a few weeks at the end of October/start of November, and wonder how the weather in the east Zerafshan valley might be around then? Specifically if the road from Ayni up towards Padask is hikeable. I’m assuming cars would struggle, but thinking it may be possible to walk up the valley along that road, stopping in villages along the way, and back.

Keen to hear if anyone has visited at that time of year, and how it was.

[Christian77]

It's 100% hikeable. The only worries are in times of high heat and glacier melt when some stream/river crossing get wrecked. But that's August in the far upper Zarafshon (Kuhistoni Mastchoh).

For your date range (1st week of November) you may get some light snow in the upper reaches of the Zarafshon river. I looked and I can see snow in one of the last five years. I use the free Sentinel satellite images (updates twice per week). You can look up older dates...

The road may get boring. I quickly grew bored walking that road last year and this year. But it was hot at the time and I was more interested in the mountain portion of my hikes.

You'll have cars stop to offer you rides (you pay) and people invite you into their homes here more often than anywhere else I've been in Tajikistan. There are other places as hospitable, but the locals here combine that with a total lack of shyness.

[cat_hag]

Thanks Christian. That sounds doable. I’ve just walked a bit of the road as part of the Pamir Trail and agree the mountains in that area are more interesting, but assumed anywhere higher will not be accessible at that time of year so thought the road might be a better bet. I thought a trip up one of the side valleys to Ghuzn and Jayi Poyon or Sangighul could be possible too- I found both of those to be nice walks.

I also considered walking up the Yaghnob from Margheb but I didn’t enjoy that part of my hike so much, and found the road quite dull.

[cat_hag]

And - if anyone has other recommendations for good routes for a couple of weeks' hiking at the end of October and in early November, would be great to hear them.

[Christian77]

In this area? If the snow level is above about 2800 meters, you can make it up to the best parts of the Padask Gorge: https://www.takali.org/padask

[cat_hag]

Thanks! That looks like a good option. Do you think there are any other multi day hikes possible in Tajikistan in late October/early November? As far as I can tell it’s the passes that are an issue, I wondered if the Maydon and Old Anzob passes might be doable because of the old roads. As you say, i suppose it depends on the snow line.

[Christian77]

Going through passes that are old roads is something that I would consider safe (versus some pass like Ghuzn/Rost or Chimtarga) in the late fall or earlier winter snow. Both Maydon and the old Anzob pass would have a clear wide path still visible with even heavy snow. So many passes are just too steep and the trails are low visibility, even when free of snow. An easy pass like Alauddin would be super sketchy in fresh snow - numerous opportunities to slide down the slope....

In the worst case snow scenario you may want to consider something further downriver. I mapped a route (in Open Street Maps) that I intended to do earlier this year, but I arrived too late (end of May) and it was already too warm. The route runs parallel to the Zarafshon river, along the lower north slopes of the Fann mountains. Access and transportation is super easy.

The route (can be done either direction): Artuch alplager > Guytan/Igrok Pass > Zimtud or Guytan guesthouse > unnamed 2245 meter pass at top of Obardor gorge > Panjrud (guesthouse or hotel) > Artuch village > Revad Pass (West) > village of Revad > unnamed 2500 meter pass above Ispena pastures > village of Vashan > over two low ridges to village of Madm (guesthouse) > 1980 meter pass to village of Kum > 2020 meter pass to town of Zerobod > over ridge to town of Ayni.

All of these villages have transportation options, so you can start/end anywhere along this route. It's easy to leave this route whenever you want, and its way less isolated than some treks further up the Zarafshon. That's my suggestion if you see the snow is too low for the higher upper Zarafshon area....

[cat_hag]

Thank you Christian. That sounds like a good option, plus there is the chance to extend it for a night or two camping in the Archamaidan valley if the weather cooperates (during my trek this year I didn't stop off at Pushtikul, and would like to). I did wonder about going over Tavasang too, since I didn't find that pass to be tricky and even in snow I think the descent would be OK. Or the Komichora Pass I thought might also be possible, though that wasn't on my route so don't know much about it.

Looking at OSM and satellite imagery it seems like the route you suggest mainly has footpaths to follow - would you think that's the case?

[Christian77]

Instead of Komichora you may want to consider Tarkh Pass. This route goes through a guesthouse in Padrud. Info here: https://www.takali.org/moghiyon-to-seven-lakes

The area I mentioned is all livestock/shepherd paths. But you need to check your location in some areas, as the path may not be as clear as you are used to when hiking at the bottom of a gorge. The sheep tend to go where they want in some of the more open terrain. A map app on your phone will help a lot here.