Current travel/safety conditions in Afghanistan

[disparate]

Hey folks!

I've been dreaming of travelling to Central Asia for three years now, and I'm finally doing it, I fly to Bishkek on Sunday.

Afghanistan has been an object of my curiosity for a long time, I'm super interested in its history, culture, natural beauty, etc.

Does anyone have any recent experiences within the country? Or has perhaps met someone while in Central Asia who has been? I'm hoping to grab the visa while in Khorog, and then cross into Uzbekistan, heading immediately to the Termez border crossing (originally was gonna cross from Tajikistan but based on news headings Qunduz is an absolute no-go).

From Termez get a bus to Mazar-e Sharif, hang out for a bit, fly to Kabul (trying to organize a CouchSurf here), and maybe do the Bamyan province. Maybe fly to Herat, and from Herat back to Mazar and into Uzbekistan again. So the only portion of overland travel would be to and from the Uzbek border and Mazar, and from Kabul to the Bamyan province if it seems safe enough.

I am aware there are guides and bodyguards you can hire but I would like to do the trip as independently as possibly, a sullen man with an AK in tow isn't exactly ideal.

[SPR11]

From the border to Mazar you have to take a taxi. Driving anywhere else in Afghanistan is not recommended. Illegal checkpoints are popping up and the situation is getting more unstable. I might have some more info on driving to Bamyan soon, but from what I hear now it's not a good idea.

Kunduz is definitely a no go area, but the cities of Mazar, Herat, Bamyan and Kabul are regarded "safe".

I'm personally of the opinion that walking around with security in tow makes you more of a target. Security personnel is a prime target.

I'll let you know if I get more info.

[adi]

Although my trip -- 1 week in Masar and Kunduz is now 2 years past-- I'd like to chip in here. I did not spot a single foreigner -- my impression of Masar was that it's perfectly safe during daylight. Noticeable was that people looked a lot at my shoes, I suspect army boots would have given the wrong impression (as would be looking/acting American, but then nobody in the world likes loudmouths).

In Kunduz, exactly two weeks after the German combat troops had been withdrawn) I missed the attack on the high court (Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta3XWk0zBu0) with 10 injured and 7 killed by 2 hours, having driven past it less than 2 hours before. Funny thing abut it: I was at that time in the bazar about 300 metres as the crow flies and there was absolutely no indication what was happening. No gunfire heard above the din, no police/army or ambulances .... I only heard about it the next day when I was approached in the street by some security guy who thought I was mad running around in public.

I think in these parts it's simply a matter of how you approach people -- dressed decently, clean and act dumb ...

Regarding Kunduz and last October's hype that it was “taken by Taliban“ I must say that looking at the pertinent youtube videos (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrzuZOnF_ZA) this wa exaggerated Western propaganda. Quite obviously the “bad guys” marched into the main square fired a few shots but certainly did not “take the town .” Knowing the location it seems that most of these vids were shot from the rooftop of the only hotel left "Haji Torabaz Khan Guest House" (2000 Afg), It's obvious that no government building was taken.

To be honest in such a situation in Afghanistan as a white man I'd be most afraid in the hospital -- not because some bearded blokes get patched up with me, but because the Yanks are sure to bomb me to death for „humanitarian reasons” (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yYHCPJOtLc and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kunduz_hospital_airstrike). In other wars such acts are considered war crimes -- something our American friends beg to differ about (http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-36174047). “Might makes right, I suppose”

Anyway getting back to the question: I found travelling alone -- without guards or hired cars - perfectly safe, but certainly not a relaxing destination. Getting a visa in Bishkek was a breeze -- just dress up when you apply and politely ask if they speak English. But by the time you read this you'll be back anyway.

PS: If you read German you might be interested in my report written immediately afterwards: http://reise.zenwort.de/stan/s_htm/05_Afghanistan.html

Footnote: the only other place in Kunduz to stay the “Ariana Hotel & Wedding Hall“ (US$ 20) is an absolute dump. Both places are hugely overprized -- the grew fat on 10 years of all-expenses-paid NGO workers etc.

[Solsticio]

From the border to Mazar you have to take a taxi. Driving anywhere else in Afghanistan is not recommended. Illegal checkpoints are popping up and the situation is getting more unstable. I might have some more info on driving to Bamyan soon, but from what I hear now it's not a good idea.

Kunduz is definitely a no go area, but the cities of Mazar, Herat, Bamyan and Kabul are regarded "safe".

I'm personally of the opinion that walking around with security in tow makes you more of a target. Security personnel is a prime target.

I'll let you know if I get more info.

How was the drive to/from Bamyan? Or didn't you go after all?

[SPR11]

From the border to Mazar you have to take a taxi. Driving anywhere else in Afghanistan is not recommended. Illegal checkpoints are popping up and the situation is getting more unstable. I might have some more info on driving to Bamyan soon, but from what I hear now it's not a good idea.

Kunduz is definitely a no go area, but the cities of Mazar, Herat, Bamyan and Kabul are regarded "safe".

I'm personally of the opinion that walking around with security in tow makes you more of a target. Security personnel is a prime target.

I'll let you know if I get more info.

How was the drive to/from Bamyan? Or didn't you go after all?

We flew there. It's theoretically possible to drive, but we were were advised against it for safety reasons.

[Solsticio]

Yes, my contacts in Bamiyan and Kabul told me the same. It's a shame, but not worth taking the risk, I guess..

[yeeenn]

Hi,
I'm wondering the latest situation in Afghanistan. I'm flying to Kabul in 3 weeks.
I did contact some local people, some people say Kabul is safe now, land travel is totally not recommended.

My plan is to travel by taxi from Kabul to Bamiyan and Jalalabad.

if anyone been there recently or in Afghanistan now, pls advise.

thanks in advance and have a nice day

[bwv812]

I did contact some local people, some people say Kabul is safe now, land travel is totally not recommended.

My plan is to travel by taxi from Kabul to Bamiyan and Jalalabad.

If locals are telling you not to travel by land, I would trust them a lot more than any single tourist (or even multiple tourists) who have done so safely.

[yeeenn]

Hi,
I left Afghanistan 2 weeks a go. was remarkable experiences there. Met so many good people in kabul. We visited Kabul, panshir and Herat. I don't know how to describe Kabul situation right now, safe and not safe. But as traveler i think we need to take extra step especially not to go out at night. but we did with local guide because we wanted to see kabul at night. Kabul is alive and people are amazing.

we went to hipster cafe in Kabul. surprise you that Kabul has Hipster cafe?

I recommend Afghanistan and definitely will visit again Afghanistan next year.

I'm Malaysian and visa application was so easy.

[wanderlust2]

Hi all,
Since information on Afghanistan travel is few and far between, I thought to add a few notes. I have just left Afghanistan after almost 3 weeks there. I won't blather on about places/what to see; there are stories on my blog if you care to read.

CLOTHING: I had had very little info to go by and had erred on the side of caution. But women, especially young women wear clothes like in Iran, not like in Pakistan. Burqas are not necessary, except if you need to travel incognito as I had to for one stretch of road travel.

SAFETY IN CITIES: The bottom line is unpredictability. Walking around in Kabul is okay but there were 3 bomb blasts in Kabul in the 5 days I was there and lot of innocent people died. The Taliban claimed responsibility for all of them. Other large cities like Herat and Mazar are also targets for blasts but less so.

Foreigners and even well-known or affluent Afghans are targets for kidnapping. This is certainly true for the Taliban but I have been told that a desperate local may also kidnap. The ransom could be as little as a couple of hundred USD. If you can pass for a local and can speak Dari, you may blend in. Else, you need to stick to safer areas or find a local to accompany you. Bottom line: keep a low profile. I was told this by more than one person, both local Afghan as well as foreigners working for NGOs. Even by some consulate staff that I met. Any foreigners working in Afghanistan is by strict rule, NOT allowed out by themselves. They go in secured vehicles door to door. Or are not allowed of their secured compounds.

STAYING: Hotels that accept foreigners are high security. Tall walls, razor wire and armed guards with AK47s are normal. Unless you know someone personally and/or they are vetted, avoid invitation to homes for the same reason. For me, this was perhaps the hardest. Afghans are traditionally very hospitable but I dared not accept the many invitations I received.

ROAD TRAVEL: For the most part to be avoided at all costs. Locals if they can afford it, fly. Kam Air has flights to all cities at around 80-100 USD. That said, some roads are okay. Within the Hazara area in the Bamiyan district is okay. Some areas like south to Ghazni or Kandahar to the east are totally no-go zones.

LAND BORDERS: To the north, from Mazar to Termez (Uzbekistan) is open and doable by locals and foreigners. To the west, between Torghundi and Serhetabat (Turkemnistan) is open for Afghans and Turkmen; I am not sure if it is open for foreigners. To the east, the border with Pakistan is open but this is through the Hindu Kush and prime Taliban territory. I believe to the north from Sultan Ishkashim to Tajikistan is open but I was there 4 years ago and haven't the latest info.

I hope tis helps you plan your travel.