Wakhan Corridor trip (2018, Solo female traveler)

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Wakhan Corridor trip (2018, Solo female traveler)

Post by girlgonetolive »

Wakhan Corridor Trip Report

In Sep 2018, I spent a month in Afghanistan's Wakhan corridor, mainly trekking in the Little Pamir. Here's my background so you understand my point of view. I'm a 21 year old Chinese girl traveling alone. I have been traveling around the world for almost 3 years already. I have experience traveling and hitchhiking in 'niche' destinations like Iran, Iranian Baluchistan and Iraqi Kurdistan. (I started hitchhiking from Iran to France through Iraq Kurdistan when I was 19). I'm a budget traveller (who has morals to not take advantage of local people's hospitality. Bring enough gifts with you. Not all families accept money as gifts.). I'm not particularly fit. I speak some Farsi, and a tiny bit of Wakhi and Kyrgyz (I taught myself from the internet). I carry a Farsi phrasebook with me. (I downloaded an illegal copy of the Lonely Planet one. It’s quite good)

I wrote this trip report solely from my own perspective and my intentions for sharing this information publicly is to hopefully help future travelers with their trip there. For photos visit my Instagram @theMarshaJean. More questions ask me there as well, I'm always happy to help! :)

Sultan Ishkashim is in Afghanistan, Ishkashim is in Tajikistan.

My Itinerary

I spent 29 days in Afghanistan, 19 of those trekking.

I entered Sultan Ishkashim on 27 August 2018 (Mon). The border guards were really friendly and allowed me to take lots of photos with them. One guard tried to ask me for 200USD but I brushed him of super easily by pretending not to understand him. He didn't try hard at all anyway. I took a taxi from the border to the main bazaar. The price is 500A (~7USD). The same guard that asked me for 200USD tried telling me the taxi is 40USD. Again I pretended to not understand his English so he let me speak with the taxi driver on the phone. I didn't have to haggle with the driver much at all as I was very direct. Learn some Farsi and life will be a lot easier for you, or read from a phrase book. I know the price is 500A.

I asked to be dropped at a printing shop to make photocopies of my passport and visa. It's important to have your passport and visa copied on the same page. The printing shop should be experienced with this already. You need 5 copies (I made 6 copies just in case. One copy goes to the Tourist Registry, one to the Police, 3 to the Khandood Police to make permits). Each copy cost 10A or less. Also you will need at least 6 small photos. (Women don't need to have a headscarf anymore.)
I first went to the Tourist Registration Office which is easy to find by asking around doing a writing hand gesture (It is also marked on Maps.me.). They took 2 of my photos, a copy of my passport and visa. They gave me a Tourist ID card that you are supposed to hand in when you leave the country (In the end the border guards didn't ask me for it so I didn't). Do not lose it.
Lastly I registered at the police station by handing in one photo and one passport+visa copy.

When I was there I was told the police's written permit system has been cancelled (By the very famous Mulan). So you don't need written permits to go to the Pamir anymore (this permit was to be handed in at Sharhad). At Khandood the police will give you 3 pieces of paper, each stabled with your passport copy. They will be handed in at checkpoints between Khandood and Qala-e-Panja. At Sharhad the police didn't ask for any permits. However I don't know if this would change but at the Tourist Registration Office the officers spoke good English. You can ask them there. If you are not confident you can hire an English speaking guide to help with the process for 20USD from the bazaar. It’s not difficult at all so just try it yourself unless you are short on time. There are no fees required by any authorities so whoever asks you for 10USD registration fee at the tourist office just ignore them/ ask for someone else.

If you want to save money, DO NOT GO SHOPPING WITH ANY GUIDES. THEY WILL RIP YOU OFF. Most of all I just hate this kind of dishonesty. I "bumped" into Mulan (the first Afghan man to summit Noshaq). Him and his friend Azim took me to eat kebab (150A per person, you get bread, tea and 8 sticks of lamb kebab). They were really welcoming and paid for my meal (They really insisted and I couldn't pay). They "helped" me go shopping. Later I found out I was ripped off big time by them. I was a bit skeptical about the high prices but the guys seemed so trustworthy. To give you a scale, I was charged 100A for each package of biscuit that actually cost 10A.

I spent one night in a guest house (I bargained it down to 10USD without food, but they gave me food anyway. I won't name the guest house in case people abuse their kindness.) It seems most guesthouses have had good reviews so just pick the one you like best. Heard good things about Marco Polo (good location) and Wafai (far but has Tajik Megaphone reception))

I'm a budget traveler so I didn't want to pay the 300usd one way taxi to Sharhad (I only budgeted for the taxi back). I hired a donkey in Sultan Ishkashem to walk to Sharhad (hoping local cars with spare seats will pick me up on the way). It turned out to be a bad idea as there were actually many cars heading to the Wakhan and a car stopped for me just 10mins after I started walking with the donkey. I should have just stood on the side of the road and waited for a car! The driver was going all the way to Khandood with local passengers and wanted to take me for free. After insisting on paying him for the ride he told me I can pay him 1000A (~14USD) if I want. He said it's the usual price. On the way driving to Khandood, 3 other local cars passed me and they all had spare seats. Many parts of the road are very sandy. Some stream crossings with deep gaps in the road were only connected by tiny tree logs that the driver had to get out of the car to rearrange them to fit the car's width. The car I was in is a really old and small Japanese car. I stayed one night in Khandood with the driver's family.

The next day the family took me to the Police station so I could register and get the 3 papers I need, to cross checkpoints on the way to Sharhad. The police station is located in a random spot up hidden in the trees. You need 3 copies of your passport+visa. They will staple 1 form to each copy.
In the bazaar I found 2 men who spoke English and they helped me find local rides to Qala-e-Panja (locals who are already going to Qala-e-Panja). The local price is 500A (~7USD) one way. There were 3 cars going and I picked one with 2 nice gentlemen. We stopped at a 'checkpoint' just outside of Khandood. I say 'checkpoint' because it's a mud building with some soldiers in a really random spot again hidden up in the trees. The commander there was very friendly. He told me if anyone is bad to me they will punish them for me.

Between Khandod and Qala-e-Panja, there's a checkpoint where I handed in the 2nd paper. In Qala-e-Panja I handed in the 3rd (last) paper. The drivers dropped me at Siri Mohammad's family's house. He is a 17 year old guide that spoke the best English out of anyone I have met in the Wakhan (besides Mulan). He was very kind and seemed genuinely hospitable. I was so lucky that he turned out to be driving to Sargaz for work the next day. He said I could totally join and pay what I want. I asked if 600A is enough and he accepted it. (He actually told me 1000A from Sultan Ishkashem to Khandood in a local shared car is too expensive... ) He hosted me for one night and it was a really really great experience. He told me he charges a ridiculously low price per day for guiding. I think he shouldn't charge so low so let's say you should pay him at least 40USD a day. Think about it, if he comes with you to a trek, he has to work 12 hours a day. I highly recommend him for his language skills but I have no idea if he’s good at guiding.

Sargaz was a bit of a nightmare as I found out that Sayeed Fraqil's family has turned into a monopolist. (Yep, he's the only guide mentioned on Caravanistan's ex-guide). They don't allow anyone from Sargaz or near by villages to be animal guides. They said I should pay 1500A per day for donkey hire. (In Khandood the police told me the official price for donkey hire (inc. owner) is 500A per day and horse 1000A per day.) The Fraqil family, especially his uncle was extremely rude to me and looking down on me. In the end Sayeed agreed to my suggestion of 600A per day to walk to Sharhad. It turned out he had to go to Sharhad with his neighbour anyway. His neighbour sat on the donkey along with all my bags on it. The donkey suffered a lot and walked extremely slow. Along the way Sayeed's been extremely annoying. He'll stop walking just after lunch with excuses of being tired. He said things like "Do you work in a club?". When the wind blew really hard and my afghan dress flew up he would whistle. I made it very clear every time by shouting at him that I'm not okay with his behaviour but he continued anyway. Oh and he ate all my biscuits, after lying to me that there are shops in Sharhad.

In Sharhad I had a lot more luck. Mulan recommended me an animal guide called Amil Mohammad who lives in a village called Chilkand just 2km before Sharhad. Amil's father is the owner of Zarik Guesthouse (just next to their family home). Amil is very very hospitable, cheerful and energetic. He's experienced in camping and the route to Chaqmaqtin. He has his own tent and brought a pot and kettle to cook for both of us. His cons are he's racist and rude to the Kyrgyz, and really lies a lot (Maybe this is unavoidable). His good out runs the bad by A LOT. so in the end I tipped him quite a lot. I had an amazing time in the Pamir thanks to his help. He owns donkeys, yaks, camels and horses. (I can’t guarantee that his personality won’t change. Money change people.). He is also one of the very few Wakhi families that told and even ENCOURAGED me to share photos of his whole family including the adult females on the internet!

MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE: spend at least a day with your animal owner/ guide before going with them. I met people who didn’t have a nice time at all because of a shitty guide. Make it clear to them you want to camp. Some guides don’t like that and will force you to stay in bad quality, zero hospitality overpriced guest houses/yurts. They make commissions from them.

My trekking route: Sargaz to Sharhad -> The high river route -> Chaqmaqtin Lake -> then trekked to as far as a village called Jarkrouck (Sulayman) -> Then coming back via the low river route -> Stopping at Chilkand (the village just before Sharhad.)

Villages I slept at in the Pamir in chronological order:

Sang-nor-wis-ta (Wakhi Village, 500A in guest house. Really really horrible service and treatment.) Very cold yurt that's not properly covered. Shared with Wakhi workers. only got shir chai and bread for dinner and breakfast.

(forgot the name) One of the Wakhi Houses before the Gerumdee Pass. Didn't ask for money because of Amil (my donkey guide). Not particularly friendly. father is opium abuser and doesn't like his daughters' and wife's curiosity to learn about how I have permission from my family to go to school, work, and travel alone. Can see it is a tourist hot spot by the amount of souvenirs the family has. received butter, milk tea, bread and rice for dinner.

All villages below are Kyrgyz villages

a lonely yurt attached to Koshch Goz. This is a very poor family. Father passed away and all adults are really really heavy opium abusers. very hospitable. didn't ask for money. gave me bracelets as souvenirs. gave Amil milk, bread and butter to take away. (I knew they would use the money I gave them on opium but I still gave it anyway)

Village Chaqmaqtin (Chief: Bottleboi) A very rich village. I didn't want to stay there as the people weren't friendly. I wanted to camp to save money but Amil wanted to stay there so he negotiated for them to host us for free. wasn't given any food which is fair.

Village Erali (Chief: Erali's son) Erali passed away 5 days before I arrived so I guess that's why the people weren't so talkative. Again I didn't want to stay but Amil requested. You will share the guest house with the Wakhi workers who were extremely rude. Caught them going through my belongings and they were yelling and laughing loudly at night. The chief didn't ask me to pay and I thought it's fair so I didn't.

Village Seki (didn't sleep here. only had lunch)
A big village with a school. Super funny and energetic old ladies welcoming me. We laughed a lot and was so glad I stopped by. This was the hospitable experience I was hoping I'd receive for trekking past the Chaqmaqtin Lake. They offered to make me Kattama (traditional butter fried bread. very delicious) but I turned it down. Huge regrets for not staying here overnight.

Village Jack-rouck (Chief: Ismail. His little brother is Sulayman)
Ismail and Sulayman killed a baby goat for me without letting me know until dinner time. I was really touched! In the morning I offered Sulayman 1500A. He immediately took the money and put it straight in his pocket, without saying a word. I think it's because my donkey guide's been a bit rude. (Amil wouldn't shut up about how he thinks the Kyrgyz should move back to Kyrgyzstan because there is no civilization in the Pamir.)

(Turned back)

Village Mar-koal
unwelcoming people. I stayed because one family agreed to make Kattama for dinner. 500A a night.

Villages to watch out (or just completely avoid):
Kosch Goz (first Kyrgyz village as you arrive), Boiz Gumbez, Erghali (the village just before Erali) all very deserve their bad reputations. At Erghali a park ranger had a very failed attempt at scamming me. He said there's a park fee of 1500A to enter the Chaqmaqtin Lake area. Amil and I just kept on walking and he yelled behind us for a few minutes (trying to threaten us). We couldn't stop laughing.

The Khorog Afghan consulate is closed on weekends and public holidays. It is open from 9am to 12pm for visa applications. The lady that deals with visa applications speaks English. Her phone number is (you need to ask me, message me on Instagram @GirlGoneToLive) .She is the one to ask about border control situations. She will dial the guards via radio to check for you. Note that both sides' border could suddenly close for no reason, for national holidays etc. In Sep 2018 the Tajik border was closed for 10 days because the Tajik president was visiting that area. The Afghan border was closed for one week during EID Al Adha. (However it opened for a group of 12 tourists after some complaining). PECTA is also a great place for information and double checking.

This seems to have been the Visa price for the last few years: (could change anytime and may varie)

Europeans 100USD
Americans 220USD
British 150USD

50USD extra for same day service. Otherwise it will be ready for collection the next day.
You pay when you collect the visa. You must pay in USD but bargain a little and they may accept somoni. I have heard of people who went just last month and managed to bargain down the price of the visa. They were Europeans and got same day service for 100USD each.

What you need:
1 passport sized photo
1 copy of your Tajik return visa (the e-visa you plan to use to come back/ your double entry visa)
A pen

It is a very straightforward and easy process. Outside of the consulate is a security guard box. Inside there is one chair and one table. This is where you will complete the application. The lady will hand you a form to fill and a blank piece of paper. A name of a guest house will do fine for the address section. On the blank piece of paper is where you write a letter declaring that you are responsible for all your own actions in Afghanistan, and that the Khorog Afghan Consulate holds no responsibility for you. Sign it with you passport number and full name.

It is now effective that the visa issued from this consulate will only allow you to travel between Sultan Ishkashem and the Wakhan region. (could also change anytime)

Finding dollars in Tajikistan (In Afghanistan they only accept notes in perfect condition!)
In the whole GBAO region of Tajikistan it seems Khorog is the only possible place to get large amounts of dollars. There are 4 ways:

1. Western Union
Very expensive but they have branches in Khorog
There are 2 atms that very occasionally have USD in stock. One is found at the Oriyon Bank on the west side of the central park. One is at Amonat bank.
3. Currency Exchange
Inside the First Microfinance Bank on the west side of the central park (next to the Oriyon Bank), is a currency exchange booth. They exchange USD and EUROS. They might have dollars in stock if you are lucky.
4. At a hostel/hotel/homestays/guesthouses
Sometimes hostels/hotels/homestays are willing to sell you their USD, but usually at a much less competitive exchange rate.

Border crossing

The border is closed on Sundays, open for half a day on Saturdays. From my own experience of asking at PECTA, asking the border guards and scouting the internet, I have concluded that there’s not certain answer to when the border is open during the day. It is closed during lunch but lunch time seems to be quite flexible. It’s best to ask PECTA in Khorog/ call the lady at the consulate. The border is closed on some holidays. It was closed for a week during EID.

In Sultan Ishkashem and the Wakhan there are no atms. Dollar is widely accepted by homestays and guides. The notes MUST be in perfect condition. It's much easier to pay animal guides with Afghani. The exchange rate can fluctuate a lot. When I was there the market rate was at 1USD=72.67 Afghani. However, all currency exchange in Sultan Ishkashem changed at 1USD=71 Afghani. A lot of shops can change for you, especially the mobile phone shops in the crossroad.

•Self driving Permits
If you want to bring your own vehicle (motorcycle, car etc.) You will need special papers. Madornomad has a very good report on that.
https://www.madornomad.com/blog/2018/07 ... ghanistan/

•Shopping (prices)
1 whole taxi Sultan Ishkashem to Zeebok 1200A
1 goat 2500-7000 afghani
1 horse from 500USD
basic "Afghan style" scarfs are 100 each (some shop owners will insist on the price of 400. just ask til you find an honest one)
basic full set Afghan top and pants (adult male size) 100A
basic full set Afghan top and pants (adult male size) with buttons and better fabric 200A
basic full set Afghan top and pants with hand sewn patterns max 400A
There are sets that cost up to 700A but they are from Fayzabad and they are REALLY good quality.
1 pen 5-10A
photo printing on glossy paper (A5 size) 20A each

There are at least 3 restaurants in Sultan Ishkashem that have kebab, plov and soup for lunch. Usually a set inc. bread and tea is never more than 150A.
At the most 'fancy' restaurant it is 150A for a kebab meal. it includes 8 sticks (2 pieces meat+1 piece fat on each), bread and tea. The restaurant is near the mosque. Just ask around for kebab.
Street food options include (not limited to) soup, manti, french fries and a meat + veg dish. (Manti 5A each)

Best to bring most of your supplies from Tajikistan, for better quality canned food and snacks. In Khorog there's a big bazaar and supermarkets where you can find oats, canned food, nuts etc. Sometimes the PECTA centre in Khorog have butane gas canisters. PECTA also rents decent camping equipments such as MSR tents, backpackers, down jackets and down sleeping bags. In Sultan Ishkashem some guides have camping equipment to rent but I wouldn't count on that.

Canned vegetables and fish are found in Sultan Ishkashem but they don't taste very healthy. Most sweets come from Turkey and are made with palm oil. In Khandood there's a small bazaar where you can find some snacks and soft drinks.

packaged biscuits 30A ('Max digestives' is good)
fake sneakers 'Albeni', 'N'Goes', 'Votivo' 20A
Apples 50A-70A per kilo
Turkish 'MEGA' packaged waffles/biscuits 10A each (yes they are that cheap)
Niks xxl 50g (fake twix bar) 5A each!
Torku Gorfet biscuits 10A each (good)
Paldideh cakes 10A (horrible)
Real Sneakers 50A
Real Digestives (big box) 150A

•Guides and tour companies

Average prices:
200USD 4X4 car rental inc. driver (each per day)
20-50USD English speaking guide (per day)
20USD cook (per day)
10USD-30USD official guesthouses and homestays (per night inc. breakfast and dinner)
Yurt homestays are usually 500A per person. Or 1000A per group. (inc. breakfast and dinner)

Buzkashi - Traditional horse game.
You can if you want. To organise a game of Buzkashi. You need to pay each horseman (with horse) 500A to play. Perhaps extra for the goat carcass too. Mounted players are organised into 2 teams and compete by placing the goat carcass into a goal. This game is played a lot during Nowruz (Persian New Year).


Despite what some online guides will tell u, it is definitely possible to hitchhike / share vehicles with locals from Sultan Ishkashem to Sargaz/ Sharhad. The other way around from Sharhad to Sultan Ishkashem, you might need to wait a few days. I came back with no problem ( I had 3 cars to choose from in Sharhad. 2 of them were tourist rides which I have to pay. I decided to hitchhike instead and took a free ride with Aga Khan Foundation. We spent 1 night together visiting an interesting village. The next day I found 2 cars with doctors in Sargaz and they drove me straight to Sultan Ishkashem while stopping at places for picnics and they showed me a very interesting shrine in the forest where people go to pray for fertility and good luck.)

Official Tourist taxi prices are:
300USD one way from Sultan Ishkashem to Sharhad.
Two options: a 4WD that sits 4 or a minivan that sits 6-7. Both same price
250USD one way from Sultan Ishkashem to Sargaz

There's an official price list available and you can demand to see it.

What I have been asked to pay when sharing local rides:
Sultan Ishkashem to Khandood 1000A (~14USD)
Khandood to Qala-e-Panja 500A (~7USD)
Qala-e-Panja to Sargaz 600A (~8USD)

Dress code (My recommendation)

In general, if you want to have a better time, respect the local culture, have locals invite you to their homes and feel comfortable around you:
Guys, wear the shalwar kameez. A full set cost from 100A.
Girls, wear loose pants and loose long top. Make sure you ass is covered. Use a scarf to cover your boob curves if possible. Wearing a scarf over your head is also helpful to integrate yourself quicker.

In the middle of nowhere:
It's tempting to go skinny dipping in the Chaqmaqtin Lake but some locals have told me this lake is sacred. A lot of households have binoculars and I have seen locals using them to spy on random things/people/places to pass time.

Special tips for girls:

Do I need to wear a hijab?
The guides and locals who spoke English in Ishkashem and some villages in Wakhan have always told me it's unnecessary for me to wear a hijab. Their reasoning is that people are used to seeing outsider women in modern clothing in television. So they don't get offended or feel uncomfortable. (Yep even on an Afghan channel you sometimes see TV show hosts not wearing any scarfs!) It is entirely your choice whether to wear a hijab or not. In Ishkashem's bazaar, when there is no policeman around, I get heavily catcalled, while wearing a full set of plain traditional Afghan dress and hijab.

Can I buy clothes in Sultan Ishkashem?
. In Sultan Ishkashem most women dresses, in my opinion, are too fancy with lots of diamonds or bright colours. Usually women buy the fabric and make their own cloths. I recommend getting a set of shalwar kameez that you see the men wear. They also come in prettier colours such as white/blue/purple. Girls can wear them too. You need to ask the shops to show you their stashes. Don’t pay more than 400A for a set. The most simple sets are 100A

Will I get harassed? Is it safe for women to travel alone?
There is a chance just like elsewhere in the world, and yes, at least I felt safe. Most of the times the men have been so so respectful. However, just like anywhere in the world, there are a few men who need a few punches in the face. I'd say besides Sultan Ishkashem, your chances of facing difficult men is quite rare. In Sultan Ishkashem, expect some catcalling, and stares. (I like to yell back when men catcall.) Stare back with the look of death if someone is looking at you super rudely. Most people just stare out of curiosity and those stares feel harmless.
I crossed paths with a European women who was entering the Pamir alone with her donkey guide just as I was leaving the Little Pamir. We later met again in Sharhad, as she had to turn back due to her knee pain. She decided to walk along with one of those caravans that transport goods and food to the Kyrgyz villages. She had a really bad time as she said the men were very disrespectful, asking her for sex etc. She said she felt pressured to follow the group, even though the right thing to do was to separate from them and just walk on her own pace with her donkey guide. If you are not a confident, sturdy, brave person, and have no solo traveling experience; you might have a tougher time. If you have a history of easily letting anyone take advantage of you, maybe try traveling more to gain experience before attempting this trip.

You need to have an open mind and keep in mind that you didn't come here to do social change. Otherwise, you will be too angry noticing the gender inequality, rather than enjoying the cultural experience. Go with an open mind to learn how life's in the Wakhan. See how strong the Afghan women are.


In Aug/Sep 2018, a car with 5 soldiers/policemen, carrying 8 million Afghani worth of salary for the teachers in the Wakhan, was robbed on its way to the Wakhan. Everyone was killed and the military could not chase down who did it. It happened just 30km out of Sultan Ishkashem, ON THE WAY to the Wakhan. The exact road, where about 100 tourists pass through each summer. Take this as a reminder, that it is definitely possible, for tourists to be attacked in this region. Just because no serious crimes against tourists happened for a decade (at least not known of... doesn't mean it won't. So consider the risk. Maybe it's safer to travel independently than joining a tour group.
Last edited by girlgonetolive on Tue Aug 13, 2019 9:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1 month in Wakhan Corridor (Solo female traveler)

Post by cristiano »

Thank you very much for this report! Very interesting and tempting...
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Re: 1 month in Wakhan Corridor (Solo female traveler)

Post by nabeelfarid »

Thanks for the detailed report. Great insight. I just looked at your instagram and realised we did the K2 Gondogoro La trip together :)

I was just curious where did you leave your bike in Wakhan when you went trekking ?
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The Dane
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Re: 1 month in Wakhan Corridor (Solo female traveler)

Post by The Dane »

Hi Masha,

Well written report. I can see you did an effort of being a bit more objective. We had some discussions in Sarhad and these have stuck with me since, was not easy with you trying to get by without paying the people and creating a bad mood for the next people visiting. Anyhow can see that you have considered this since your trip in the way you are writing.

Again thanks for the effort of writing this to encourage people to visit this wonderful place.

Stay honest out there,

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Bernard Grua
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Re: Wakhan Corridor trip (2018, Solo female traveler)

Post by Bernard Grua »

Absolutely brilliant and very useful report! Congratulations, also, for the trip you have been able to perform on your own way.
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Re: Wakhan Corridor trip (2018, Solo female traveler)

Post by edward1012 »

I just want to say a big big thank you for sharing such a detailed post!

I'm from Hong Kong myself and planning to go trekking this 2019
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