Hitchhiking with a bicycle from Osh to Dushanbe

[Maciej87]

Hi,
I'm from Poland and I'm planning to cycle Pamir Highway from Dushanbe to Osh in August. I'll have 3-3,5 weeks to make the entire journey.I can't figure out how to get back to Dushanbe from Osh. Do you have any ideas or it'd be better to arrive to Dushanbe and go back from Osh? To be honest I'd prefer to go back from the same city because fares for multi-city option are considerably higher.

[steven]

If you don't want to cycle the best would be to hitchhike trucks. Getting your bicycle in a small marshrutka or taxi will be difficult.

[Maciej87]

I see. I was thinking of cycling the whole circle and go back from Osh through Karamyk-Jirgital but it's closed for foreigners. I've seen your post that it could re-open this year but it's not sure. Therefore I'd have to cross Konibodom - Beshariq border and enter Osh from Uzbekistan. Visa isn't any problem because Polish citizens don't need it but I don't think it would be doable to cycle the whole circle in such a short time. What's more I don't know how captivating is the part from Dushanbe through Konibodom/Beshariq to Osh for cyclists.

[steven]

You should have another look at the border crossing map, though. Batken - Isfara is much closer and it means you do not have to pass through Uzbekistan to return to Osh via Khujand.

[Maciej87]

But I'd have to cycle through Boz-Adir and Chechme? So I will have to enter Uzbekistan though.

[bwv812]

No entry to Uzbekistan is required, as the new roads avoid the enclaves.

[Maciej87]

Lovely. I didn't know that. As an alternative to Dushane - Osh ride I came up with the idea of thumbing a lift from Osh to Sary Tash, then cycle through Bartang Valley to Rushon, down along the Afghan-Tajik border to Murgob and back to Osh. What do you make of it? It's doable in 3,5 weeks? What about wading across the rivers in Bartang Valley in August?

[steven]

Bartang Valley is always unclear: you will probably have to gamble since very few people travel that road. Last year it was ok, that's all I can say. It's an intense trip but doable in 3,5 weeks. Also, more interesting than the long way round via Dushanbe and Khujand.

I guess you have seen the blogs on Caravanistan of the cyclists who did the Bartang Valley. If not, have a look, you can get a feel for what it's like. In general, it seems there is usually a way with the bike but not necessarily with the car.

[Maciej87]

Yes, of course I went through the blogs of the cyclists who did it. One more thing I'm thinking of, will I loose a lot leaving out the part from Dushanbe to Rushon or cycling through Bartang Valley should be more interesting? I usually focus on nature, landscapes and encounters with local people. As an alternative to Bartang Valley and Dushanbe/Khujand the Karamyk/ Jirigital would be an option but nobody knows if the border crossing will be open.

[bwv812]

I would assume the Karamyk/Jirgital crossing will still be closed, and the Bartang Valley should be a lot more interesting given your stated interests.