Caspian sea ferry updates & questions

[stephane_bw]

FERRY MAKHACHKALA TO AQTAW
Hi
I am traveling from Europe towards Pakistan and India overland from August onwards with public transport. Would really like to avoid flying. Because of the situation with Iran, it breaks my heart to consider alternative options. Given the overland borders of Azerbaijan may still be closed, I am wondering whether there is a ferry service between Makhachkala in Dagenstan Russia to Aqtaw/Qurik in Kazakhstan?
Thank you!

[Milad]

There is no such ferry, but you can cross the Russian-Kazakh border between Astrakhan and Atyrau.

[Triplenang3141]

Ferry from Kuryk (Aktau port) → Alat (Baku port):

I was wondering if anyone has had any recent success in obtaining the special permit to enter Azerbaijan by sea? I can't find any stories since that mythical duo of cyclists made the crossing in 2022.

I have just emailed the Azerbaijani embassy in my country, along with the Azerbaijani ministry of foreign affairs and cabinet of ministers, asking if they could provide this permit. I stated the reason for my application is because I will be in Nukus, Uzbekistan before I plan to visit Azerbaijan and therefore taking the ferry from Kuryk --> Alat is by far the easiest way for me to enter the country.

I will keep you guys updated on my experience.

[joost.bijl]

I also reached out to the local AZ embassy (in NL) to request permission to enter via land border. Their reply is still pending, fingers crossed.

[Triplenang3141]

Ferry from Kuryk (Aktau port) → Alat (Baku port):

I was wondering if anyone has had any recent success in obtaining the special permit to enter Azerbaijan by sea? I can't find any stories since that mythical duo of cyclists made the crossing in 2022.

I have just emailed the Azerbaijani embassy in my country, along with the Azerbaijani ministry of foreign affairs and cabinet of ministers, asking if they could provide this permit. I stated the reason for my application is because I will be in Nukus, Uzbekistan before I plan to visit Azerbaijan and therefore taking the ferry from Kuryk --> Alat is by far the easiest way for me to enter the country.

I will keep you guys updated on my experience.

Unfortunately, my local Azerbaijani embassy (AUS) said they cannot help me, as it is against the law to enter AZB through sea.

[stephane_bw]

There is no such ferry, but you can cross the Russian-Kazakh border between Astrakhan and Atyrau.

Thanks Milad, is there public transport from Dagestan to Atyrau and then onwards towards Bukhara and Dushambe? How long would you expect from Astrakhan and Atyrau?
Also, is there any eay to enter into Dagestan from Georgia? Or does one need to go via Chechnya? Is that safe?
sorry for the many questions, dont hesitate to send me link to threads qhich I havent found… Thanks!

[Milad]

If you're coming from Georgia, no need to go through Chechnya (and Dagestan), there is a bus from Vladikavkaz to Astrakhan. I think it's daily but the schedule varies. You can check the schedule at tutu.ru (but probably not book there as it will reject your western credit card). There is also a train option but this takes longer and goes through Chechnya. From Astrakhan, you can take a night train (every second night) to Atyrau. From Atyrau, there are a few trains towards Uzbekistan every week, more options when changing in Beineu.

It may seem a good option to go from Astrakhan to Aksaraiskaia by taxi (55 km) as the Volgograd-Tashkent train stops there (so you'd have a direct connection to Uzbekistan) and I have suggested this to travelers before, but this is the heavily-guarded border station in the middle lf nowhere and FSB will be very interested in any western foreigner loitering around there, so I would not do this currently. Rather catch this train in Atyrau, even though this option may take longer.

Check train schedules at tutu.ru or pass.rw.by (the latter is generally better but Russian only).

[stephane_bw]

Wow thanks a lot Milad, so helpful! Do you know if I can get a transit visa for Russia and Kazakhstan or do I need proper visas? Cheers

[RidingABikeSomewhere]

Just took the ferry from Baku to Kuryk in Kazakhstan, altogether the ship journey took 31 hours, but hours more were spent waiting at the port on either side for formalities. The information on Wikivoyage and in the recent trip reports here remains valid.

None of the trip reports prepared me, however, for just how bad the food is on the ferry, possibly the worst in my life. Breakfast is a piece of low-quality white cheese with bread and boiled egg – you get one small serving of jam, no more. Lunch and dinner was either spaghetti, buckwheat, or rice with mystery meat and it made everyone gassy. We were four tourists altogether and about 20 Russian and Central Asian truck drivers. The truck drivers tended to surreptitiously drink and become boisterous, and the staff on the ship had become very short-tempered and brusque due to this behaviour, so even considerate tourists will be shouted at.

[Milad]

Wow thanks a lot Milad, so helpful! Do you know if I can get a transit visa for Russia and Kazakhstan or do I need proper visas? Cheers

Transit visa is sufficient for Russia. For Kazakhstan, many western nationalities don't need a visa. If you do need one, I can't give you advice from experience as I don't.