I will be cycling Pamir Highway in June(ish) and since the border is still closed, I was wondering, if any of you have a suggestion for an alternative route. Or info on how easy it would be, to hitchhike back towards Dushanbe? I had some pretty bad, traumatizing experience hitchhiking from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, so I am not sure, if stopping some random car or truck or MAN, would be possible… So any advise is much appreciated. Of if there is somebody who will be driving back and has room for (one way) a bicycle and a copilot with epic music taste - let me know
If i was you and I had the time I would do something like this:
1. Take a jeep from Dushnabe to Khorog
2. Cycle to at least Murghab via Shakhdara valley.
3. Track back to Khorog but through Wakhan corridor
4. Take a jeep from Khorog to Dushanbe
Hitchhiking is usually very safe but if I get it right you are female so uhm... may be better idea is to pair with someone in Murghab and rent a jeep back to Khorog (or even Dushnabe).
hitch-hiking is not very common in Pamir : few vehicles, and shared taxi often wait until they are full before leaving. Also, drivers often expect you contribute to the travel cost, as gas is expensive for tadjiks. It is easier to take 1 seat in a shared taxi or minibus between Murgab and Khorog, or Khorog and Dushanbe, if you don't have enough time to go and return by bike.
The alternative route suggested by Kazalpan is a nice one, but I would rather do it the other way round, because riding up Wakhan corridor is a bit easier than riding up Shokdara valley.
Hitch-hiking on the highway itself (up until Murghab) is usually easy because of the many trucks that go back and forth China. Out of it, you may or may not have luck.
Flying_Gate: Yes, shared taxis will accept your bike on the top but they may or may not charge you extra for that. Depends on your negotiation skills. Also, if you are satisfied with the ride it is a good practice to give the driver small tip at the end.
I have never been, but I've read on here about people doing similar things and there are loads of shared taxis and sling the bike on top maybe
Don't rely on "loads of" share taxis. There are some from time to time, but usually they are full and you don't easily jump in where you are on the side of the road. Your chance may be turist 4x4 if you contribute and are ok with following their program.
I'm in the same situation, so all advice and ideas here will be useful and appreciated! I'm planning to cycle Sweden-Singapore and will probably be in Tajikistan end of June / beginning of July. Would've loved to cycle Pamir Highway the traditional way and end up in Osh, but with the border closed I might cycle as far as I can and have a prearranged car drive me back down to Dushanbe. I don't know the dates since I'm just now about to start, but if we end up in the region around the same time perhaps we can coordinate. Just something to have in mind.
for information I'm also going for a bike tour. I arrive at the beginning of June and I have a 4x4 direct to Khorog to pick me up when I arrive at the airport.
For my itinerary, I leave from Khorog, Wakhan valley, Murghab then I go up to Karakul lake and then Bartang valley and I return to Khorog. If the situation at the Afghan border should become worse I will take the option of the Shokhdara valley.
I still wonder how much time I will take for this tour (I have only one month, so I hope I have not been too ambitious...) do not hesitate to write me in PM, maybe we can share the costs of the 4x4.
I'd say one month is just enough in the best possible case. I mean there are a lot of things that may slow you down - floods, landslides, food poisoning, bicycle problems, etc. If you are short on time you can alway catch a ride back to Khorog or Dushanbe. If I was you I would take the road through Shokhdara valley. This way you will have more time to enjoy Pamir and its culture unless you are on a some kind of race and only want to cover as much distance as possible.
I'd say one month is just enough in the best possible case. I mean there are a lot of things that may slow you down - floods, landslides, food poisoning, bicycle problems, etc. If you are short on time you can alway catch a ride back to Khorog or Dushanbe. If I was you I would take the road through Shokhdara valley. This way you will have more time to enjoy Pamir and its culture unless you are on a some kind of race and only want to cover as much distance as possible.
It is a trip so no ambition of distance, the most important is to enjoy beautiful landscapes! Concerning the valley of Shokhdara, the landscapes are more beautiful than the valley of Wakhan or you think that it is less beautiful?
