Pamir Highway checkpoints

Is the road, border or area open and accessible to foreigners? Is there danger?
Forum rules
Before asking a border crossing question, make sure you have read the relevant article about the country. Overview page: http://caravanistan.com/border-crossings/

Before submitting a crossing report or question, have a look first to see if a topic already exists. Existing forum topics are linked to from the border crossing pages on the site.

Thank you!
User avatar
steven
Admin
Admin
Posts: 3696
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 4:32 pm
x 3041
x 412

Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby steven » Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:37 pm

If you have had experiences of interest at the checkpoints along the Pamir Highway, please leave them here.

I organise our collective knowledge at http://caravanistan.com/tajikistan/pami ... eckpoints/
0 x
If you like Caravanistan: we have opened a tip jar! We love you back! :D

User avatar
steven
Admin
Admin
Posts: 3696
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 4:32 pm
x 3041
x 412

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby steven » Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:38 pm

At the moment, cyclists are not recommended to travel solo to the Kargush pass checkpoint. Really awful border guards there.
0 x
If you like Caravanistan: we have opened a tip jar! We love you back! :D

Cam
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2016 7:06 am
x 4

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby Cam » Sat Oct 22, 2016 5:03 pm

I had a bad, then good experience on the Kargush pass recently. I was cycling solo via the pass early Oct 2016 and had my bags pulled apart and searched like nothing else by the two guards in the middle of a sand storm. They split my bags into two spots so I couldn't keep an eye on things. The went through every money bill, asked to keep my sunnies and MP3 player while waving their gun around, and ended up taking a bunch of my food and 50 Somoni because apparently my cooking knife was too big. I relented because I just wanted to get out of there because of the storm.

However, I managed to report the incident to a high ranking army guy traveling on the road later that day. He returned a few hours later with the two guards in the back of a truck, both looking terrified. They apologised and returned my 50 Somoni. The high ranking guy gave a long speech about him dealing strongly with the guards and said he wanted tourists to feel safe in the area. He seemed genuine.
2 x

jordi_casas
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 1:11 pm
x 8

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby jordi_casas » Sun Oct 23, 2016 2:44 am

On my hitchhicking trip from Osh to Dushanbe through the Kargush pass, I got stucked for a while in the checkpoint. End of September.

Smilar to Cam experience. Two young soldiers, one with big gun. It was early morning, they were finishing bothering a NZ cycler and they had all the time of the world to check my bag entirely. Everything. Specially the first aid kit. They were having fun listening to my mp3 device listening to Megadeath. They didn't steal me money though. When a car with Australian tourists came, they asked me to pack fast and leave. They only stole me a chocolate bar they 'asked' me to have.

Other cyclers and tourists I met where bothered in a similar degree, but never asked for money.

The other control after the cross to the Garmachasma hot springs they were kind enough but very slow, 10 minutes to write down my data being alone...
0 x

lissie45
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2016 1:54 am
x 4
x 10

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby lissie45 » Sun Oct 23, 2016 3:04 am

Ah they checking computers/tablets - ie going through files and photos?
0 x
My pretty random blog: http://LisTravelTips.com

jordi_casas
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 1:11 pm
x 8

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby jordi_casas » Mon Oct 24, 2016 2:45 am

They didn't do that to me.. just the mp3 device, because je wanted it fr himself.
0 x

Uazdan
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2016 1:57 am
x 4

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby Uazdan » Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:11 am

Had a similar experience with the border guards at Kargush. I was in my own car. Wanted to look through everything. Was obviously looking for things to keep. We were very lucky to a fluent russian speaker with us which help keep things from getting out of hand. Heard similar stories from all other travelers we met that had been through that checkpoint.
This was very late september so they may have been straightened out since then, judging from the previous post.
Does anyone know where you would find the higher ranking army person? For future travelers, if it keeps happening.
1 x

sakara
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2016 12:11 pm
x 1
x 39

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby sakara » Wed Feb 22, 2017 4:02 pm

January 2017 when leaving Murgab in direction off Khorog by shared jeep. At the exit checkpoint 2km outside of Murghab we were sent back stating we had to register. I m fluent i russian and told the officers politely that this was not necessary. The jeep driver told him less politely that he was an idiot who had no idea. Finally one of the officers came with the jeep (someof the passengers prefered to wait at the checkpoint) and we drove back to Murgab to the policesation. The driver complaint to all the policeofficers about the checkpoint guy being an idiot. Meanwhile the checkpointguy took us to an office. There, surprise: Tajik policewomen, super friendly, spoke good english, delighted to speak to us. She had a little chat with us about our travels, made copies of our passports, wished us good travels and that was it.
She seemed quite surpized when we arrived - so I am pretty sure theres actually no need for this registration thing and the checkpoint guy was wrong. However - turned out to be a pleasant experience.
2 x

Solsticio
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:50 pm
x 22

Re: Pamir Highway checkpoints

Postby Solsticio » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:34 pm

The only checkpoint where I had to exit the car was shortly before entering Khorog oblast. The officer said that one of the regions of Gorno-Badakhshan was not mentioned on the permission stamp, so that I could not pass here and should go all the way around through the Wakhan valley. Or pay a fine of course. I made a bit of a scene as I had heard of an American paying huge amounts of money because of something like that. Since the stamp from the embassy was quite old, I could imagine that something was actually missing, but of course there would be no point of giving a permission for all regions expect for one in the middle. When I said that I needed at least a receipt to reclaim this penalty from the embassy the officer backed down and let me pass. The only attempted scam I encountered in Tajikistan.

There were some checkpoint on the way from Khorog to Khorog, but all went smoothly.
1 x


  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post
  • Pamir Highway Help Please!
    by doug27 » Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:09 pm » in Tajikistan
    8
    4432
    by doug27 View the latest post
    Fri Oct 07, 2016 7:05 am
  • Pamir highway mid-May
    by Kineky » Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:01 am » in Tajikistan
    16
    7440
    by roro View the latest post
    Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:42 am
  • Pamir Highway security Q&A
    by cal79 » Mon Mar 30, 2015 3:39 pm » in Roads, borders and security updates
    22
    7104
    by kgh View the latest post
    Sat Nov 10, 2018 10:34 am
  • Pamir Highway - Weather
    by Peter.S » Sun Jan 08, 2017 6:02 pm » in Tajikistan
    4
    3558
    by bike-shuttle View the latest post
    Tue Feb 28, 2017 9:43 pm
  • Pamir highway itinerary help
    by moazzam » Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:53 am » in Itineraries & trip reports
    3
    593
    by AreWeThereYet? View the latest post
    Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:37 pm

Return to “Roads, borders and security updates”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest