Dushanbe->Wakhan valley->Osh (from August 4th): trekking, ridesharing, travel buddy

[juraj]

Hey there, good people of Caravanistan,

some advice/info needed here. My plan this summer is to visit Pamir Highway in first half of August and travel Bishkek to Osh via Khorog, Iskashim, Langar, Alichur and Murghab by shared transport, hitchhiking and on foot. My itinerary:

~ 4. August - Dushanbe
day 1: Dushanbe - Khorog 250-300 somoni, 12-16h
day 2: Khorog - Iskashim 40 somoni, 4h
day 3: Ishkashim – Langar: 50 somoni, 4h
day 4: Langar
day 5: Langar - Rachiv (~30km says Gmaps)
day 6: Rachiv - Kargush (~35km says GMaps, although some claim Langar-Khargush to be 46km all together?)
day 7: Kargush - M41 junction (32km on foot), Ozero Kargush on 9km and 22km Ozero Chukur-Kul' and something lake-like at the junction
day 8: M41 junction - Alichur (~25km says Gmaps), Ozero Sassykkul' halfways
day 9: Alichur - Murghab - ? somoni, ? hours
day 10: Murghab - Osh expect between 1 car every 2 days and 2 cars per day maximum to leave

My first option is to try to hitch (and pay for) a ride along the way for each and any of the walking sections (days 5-8), but as I don't expect much traffic along the way I guess I have to be prepared to do it all on foot, starting before sunrise, taking a break when the sun is high, and continuing to walk until dark and put up a tent where I've come.

1. Travel buddy / ridesharing.
Want to join me for ANY part of this? Have an extra place in a car that I can pay you for, again for ANY part of this? Please let me know!

2. Food & water supplies.
Are there any additional places between Rachiv, Khargush and M41 junction I'm unaware of, where I could re-supply on water & food?
Can I count on re-supplying on water and food in Rachiv and Khargush? I haven't seen Rachiv on LonelyPlanet maps nor this trekking map. Is it really there or what is it?

3. Natural water resources.
Water is my main concern. I will be having water tablets and a filtering bottle, as even high altitude Pamir lakes are confirmed to be infested with nasty stuff. But a lot of water is heavy to carry. Can anyone confirm the following lakes are still there in August when the rain is low, as well as that they're freshwater? Ozero Sasykkul', Ozero Chukur-Kul', Ozero Khargush.

3. Other
Do you see any other reason I missed, why this wouldn't work? Safety? Security? Wild animals? Boarder guards?

[ron]

hi there Juraj i will be arriving in Dushanbe on 7th August then go to Osh along pamir highway.

[bwv812]

There don't seem to be any buildings at all near the 'Rachiv' pin on google maps, so I wouldn't expect anything there. I don't think you'll have a problem with water, though. You can probably get some food from locals along the way, if need be, but I would plan on bringing the food needed between Langar and Alichur.

Cyclists and motorists over the last year or so have reported guards along the Kargush road asking for bribes and/or trying to take stuff.
http://caravanistan.com/forum/viewtopic ... 292&p=8427

[Pamirski]

Not sure about your lakes, especially Sasykkul and Chukur Kul, if they are not too salty. I would take a lot of water from the strem on the Khargush side until you catch up the Pamir Hwy. There is no food resuply between Langar and Alichur/Bulunkul besides if you ask herders or the soldiers (so would not count on it).
Why not taking Mats and Maisara pass instead of Khargush. I think that would be a more beautiful option.

[juraj]

Thank you so much for the info! Based on your advice, to avoid border guard harassment & make the route more beautiful,I guess going Mats pass would be a good option.

Please, correct me if I'm wrong:

- the path to Mats pass starts right here after Rachiv is marked on Gmaps on the road Langar-Khargush?
- the path Rachiv - Mats pass - Javshanguz should be easy to find, basically just following the small river between the mountains?
I will get some maps of course, but this would certainly be helpful since I will be on my own. The path (road?) even seems to be visible on Gmaps.
- after I join M41 right after going Javshanguz - Jelandy (i.e. close to Jelandy)? What are my chances of finding transport further to Murghab? Or should I try getting to Alichur first?

Ron, since I'm time-limited, I will probably continue to Khorog the next day after I reach Dushanbe, but we can keep in touch and maybe meet along the way, depending on your schedule.

[Pamirski]

The road over mats path was formerly done by jeeps. We did it in 2010 on bicycles and had to push a lot as the road is gone now. So walking will be no problem, you must cross the river at least once, we did it twice and the water was high (depends on weather). We came out on the other site than you indicated (http://bike-pamir.blogspot.ch/2010/10/u ... range.html).
I think you should not have big problems in getting a transport onward to Murghab, when you reach the Pamir Hwy.