Is Astana a paroxysm of late capitalism, or a glorious tribute to a nation and its leader? Both, I would say.

The newly built capital of Kazakhstan is one of the world’s foremost exponents of Dubaization: the act of building a city relying on spectacular, non-contextual architecture.

Planned without the slightest regard for the area’s harsh climate, its mad buildings, imploding or catching fire at unexpected intervals, have fully earned Astana its nickname of Fuckingnutsotropolis.

Architecture is a built representation of a certain time in history, and as such, Astana eloquently represents the values of Kazakhstan in the Nazarbayev era: untethered greed, vacuous morals, and shoddy workmanship.

As such, it makes an excellent tourist destination.

Travel advice

I have not spent enough time in Astana to be able to give good travel advice. When following the advice of others, keep in mind the city is evolving at a rapid pace and what was true yesterday might no longer be true today.

Sadly orphaned for now, I have already written a guide to the Astana airport and to skiing in and around Astana.

Beyond Astana

At least 2 full days can be spent agreeably marveling at the architecture and visiting the different museums of Astana.

After that, it is time to get out. The Burabay (Borovoye) resort area is now a type of Astana-on-Sea. Nature lovers might enjoy the Naurzum and Korgalzhyn reserves (I have not been myself). These are in any case destinations best reached with a tour guide or your own transport.

The most interesting, most achievable side-trips from Astana are Semey and the Polygon, Karaganda, Temirtau and Dolinka.

The next interesting stops are 1000 km away: Altai, Almaty and surroundings, and Southern Kazakhstan.