Outside of a few well-known places, Southern Kyrgyzstan is still terra incognita to the traveling community. That’s a pity, because the area does offer something different.
In the south, the mountainscapes are rougher and higher compared to the more sedate alpine beauty of the Issyk-Kul region. Unlike Bishkek, Osh is an ancient city with millenia of history as a Silk Road stop, and many of the farmers in the surrounding area look to Tashkent for cultural guidance.
Wrapped around the borders of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, the Kyrgyz part of the Ferghana Valley is the antithesis of Kyrgyzstan’s brand image: hot, flat, and not a yurt in sight. There is still a large Uzbek population living here (although their relative number is declining). Farmers and traders rather than shepherds, their culture is at odds with Kyrgyz identity.
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Osh
The capital of southern Kyrgyzstan is Osh. Split 50/50 between an Uzbek and a Kyrgyz community, the city exhibits a certain charm for those interested enough to poke around the corners and explore Osh’s chequered history.
Mostly though, Osh serves as a transport hub, and a pit stop for those wanting to recharge before/after visiting Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, China or the Alay range.
North of Osh
North of Osh lie 2 cities of minor interest: Jalalabad has hot springs and a sanatorium, while Uzgen holds an ancient minaret and mausoleum worth a stop-over.
A bit higher still, edging into the mountains bordering the valley, lies Arslanbob. If there is something like a tourist trail in Kyrgyzstan, Arslanbob is definitely on it, and deservedly so: it is a wonderful place.
Located at the edge of the biggest walnut forest in the world, Arslanbob has good hiking and ski touring opportunities. But perhaps its biggest asset is its homestay network, delighting visitors with the Uzbek village hospitality so difficult to sample in Uzbekistan itself because of restrictive laws.
Batken province
Batken province, the lower jaw of Kyrgyzstan, is known either as “that place you need to go through to get to Tajikistan”, or, “where they have those mad enclaves”.
There is, however, something to see. You can try spotting lynx, brown bears and maral in Surmatash and Sarkent national parks. Chyragdan, Djan-Chakty, Khaidarken and Sulyukta are the names of botanical reserves protecting rare species of tulip. Finding the endemic Aigul flower has become an expat rite of passage in Kyrgyzstan.
The enclaves, specifically Shohimardon, Vorukh and Sokh are of interest, if you like a bit of a challenge. But they are troubled, so read up before you go.
Alay mountains
Alay, Trans-Alay and Pamir-Alay: all terms to describe the landscape where the Pamir and Tien Shan meet. High, remote, forbidding mountains that separate Kyrgyzstan from China and Tajikistan.
The Alay range has world-class climbing opportunities everywhere you look, but Peak Lenin, at 7134 m, is the logical focal point. At the foot of the mountain, the Achik Tash base camp services climbers going up. Achik Tash is also the main start-off point for any organised trekking or horse riding tours in the Alay range.
Further west, the Turkestan Range straddles the complicated borders of Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. More good trekking and climbing opportunities exist here, for those willing to take the extra trouble of getting to this remote corner.
Birdwatchers, botanists and zoologists will delight as well; the wild nature of the Alay region means this is a haven for rare species of plants and animals.
Next destinations
To get across the mountains to Naryn, you need to take the road between Jalalabad and Naryn. Although its surfaces are terrible, it still ranks as one of the best drives in Kyrgyzstan. The views are wonderful.
The road north towards Bishkek is the other main scenic drive in Kyrgyzstan.
China, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan
Looking east, go to China over the Irkeshtam pass. West lies Uzbekistan‘s Ferghana Valley.
South is Tajikistan. Turn south off the road to China to head straight into the high Pamirs. West from Osh lies the hot and muggy Sughd region of Khujand. It is the quickest way to the Fann mountains and Dushanbe.