A 3-hour drive from Osh, Sary Mogol is a village of around 2000 souls near the border with Tajikistan, situated on a wide plateau at 3 km above sea level. The spectacular Alay range rises like a wall of snow in front of it, 3 km higher still.
The location is made even more operatic because of the changeable weather. Often, the day starts out clear and the peaks are in full sight. But late sleepers are rewarded too. Around lunch time, clouds start crowding out the sky to draw the landscape in dramatic chiaroscuro.
The clouds bring rain and shivers. Bring warm clothes any time of the year.
Mountains are the reason to visit Sary Mogol. It is the jumping off point for hikes and climbs into the surrounding Alay range. For travellers not keen on a big hike, we recommend a stay at nearby Tulpar Kol to see Peak Lenin up close, as a stop-over on the Pamir Highway.
We welcome your questions and experience reports on Sary Mogol in the forum.
Transport and services
The road is perfectly paved between Osh and Sary Mogol. By taxi, Osh to Sary Mogol is 3 hours and 400 som for a seat. There is a daily marshrutka to Daroot Korgon leaving Osh at 14 – 4 hours and 300 som for a seat.
There is a bank with an ATM, and 1 restaurant, close to the market.
There are a number of homestays in Sary Mogol. We have not visited all of them, but we gather they are all quite similar in terms of services. Homestays consist of rooms with 3 to 5 single beds and an outdoor toilet and banya. Food is home cooking.
You can book them through the CBT office, or just book directly: signs from the main road point the way to different homestays.
If you are not planning to do the Heights of Alay hike, we recommend you stay at Tulpar Kol instead, 1 hour drive south at the foot of Peak Lenin.
Things to do
There is nothing to do in Sary Mogol outside of having a chat with your homestay hosts, strolling through the streets and playing with the local children.
It really is just a place to stay overnight and arrange your trek before you head off into the mountains.
If you are travelling independently and did not make arrangements beforehand, the office of CBT Sary Mogol is the place to arrange this beforehand. Or you could ask your homestay host if they could arrange transport for you.
Once a year, the local CBT organises a yak festival at Tulpar Kol, which gets good reviews.
We have a forum topic going where you can read and leave reviews of CBT Sary Mogol.