A few years ago we still wrote here that accommodation in Tajikistan was not a good deal. A lot has changed since then. Decent mid-range options have cropped up in Dushanbe and Khorog, as well as a bevy of hostels.
In the countryside, homestays are basic. Backpackers might scoff at paying 15$ for a basic bed and an outdoor toilet, but Tajikistan is an expensive country and, believe us, no one is milking you.
For general tips on toilets, hospitality, breakfast and a selection of top places to stay on the Silk Road, see the overview page.
For an overview of accommodation in Dushanbe, see our Dushanbe accommodation guide.
Western-style toilets are generally hard to find in Tajikistan outside of hotels and the nicer homestays. Keep it in mind if you have knee problems.
Also, bring your own toilet paper.
Locals inviting you in and tarof
People are often found to be very hospitable in Tajikistan, and many travelers have found themselves invited in to stay the night. Or have they? It’s tarof! Do have a read through our article on tarof and other dos and don’ts in Tajikistan. It’s an important concept in Persian culture that you should be aware of to avoid misunderstandings.
If you have established that the invitation is real, you will usually be invited to sleep in the living room on comfortable thick roll-out mats called kurpatchas.
Possibly the best way to enjoy Tajikistan’s marvelous landscapes. Be sure to stock up on food for the more desolate parts, and to keep warm in the higher reaches. Beyond that, enjoy the ride!
Camping gear availability
There are 4 places you can buy camping gear in Dushanbe. The selection, price, quality and range of products cannot compete with what is available in Bishkek, so shop there if you can. Locals do most of their shopping online so you might want to do that as well.
If not, for low-quality and heavy (but cheap) equipment, go to “Varzish Sporttovar” (Gmaps) For better quality and more expensive gear, go to the Munisa Mall (Gmaps). The Archa foundation has a second-hand gear shop.
The ultra-low-budget shop is the Korvon Bazaar. We found a random assortment of gear here, including tents that sell for 170 Somoni. These tents are likely only good for keeping the sun off and the mosquitoes away. They are not waterproof and they look like very low quality.
If you are looking to rent some gear, the Archa foundation might be a good place to start looking. Otherwise, most tour operators should also have some spare gear they might be willing to rent out.
More tips welcome in the Dushanbe camping gear forum thread.
Stoves and fuel
Choosing the right stove for Tajikistan is a little tricky. Gas canisters are usually available these days in Dushanbe, sometimes in Khorog, but these are often refilled with poor quality gas. If you are passing by Kyrgyzstan, get it there.
A multi-fuel stove is more reliable, although once again, the petrol you get in Tajikistan, especially in the Pamirs, is low quality. You can filter it with a stocking. Fill up in one of Kyrgyzstan’s bigger petrol stations if you can. Carburetor cleaner is available in all car maintenance shops, great for cleaning your fuel stove. Bring an additional maintenance kit as well.
For gas canisters, check out the shops listed in the previous section, or call around to the hostels and ask if they have any for sale (In Dushanbe, City Hostel, Greenhouse Hostel and Yellow House are the best bets). Dushanbe’s Archa foundation also sells gas canisters.
Osh also has some hostels that sell fuel for camping stoves – we don’t know of a place in Khujand yet.
On the forum we keep a running list of places where you can get stove fuel in:
Homestays are often not the greatest value for money, but staying here is one of the best ways to inject some cash directly into the local economy without local power players or the president’s family getting their grubby hands on it. If you are not camping, it’s also your only option outside of the big cities.
Homestays charge around 15$/night per person and generally consist of shared well-heated rooms with roll-out mattresses on the floor. It’s very comfy if you don’t have a bad back and are not too fussed about privacy. The best ones have Western-style toilets, a shower and private rooms with beds. More often toilets will be of the crouching type located outside of the house, and washing facilities will be a heated banya with bucket showers.
If you are staying at homestays, watch out with the food. A lot of travelers come down with worms, amoebes, dysentery, … after eating in homestays. In other words: lots of time on the toilet (if there is one). Watch out with what you eat and wash your hands!
Airbnb and apartment rental
Airbnb and Homeaway have spaces for rent in Tajikistan. Apartments also get rented out on other hotel booking sites like Booking.com. These apartments are generally owned by real estate moguls and you are unlikely to share a space with others or even see the owner. A decent alternative to more traditional accommodation options.
Electricity black-outs are an issue in winter in Tajikistan. Ask in advance if this is likely to happen in your apartment block. The center of Dushanbe generally does not have issues, anywhere else is in the danger zone.
Hotels & hostels
The quality of hotels is generally still low in Tajikistan, but improving year over year. Expect to get less than what you paid for. Dushanbe and Khorog have some expensive international-standard options catering to NGO development consultants.
Hostels exist in Dushanbe and Khorog, and the number of good ones is rising. Bargaining is acceptable if you did not book in advance.
Hot water is a typical summer issue in the former Soviet Union that is often outside of the control of small-scale hotels. When the utility company decides to switch it off, they are left standing. Ask politely if there will be hot water. Electricity black-outs also occur in winter in Tajikistan.
Ask in advance what kind of measures your hotel has in place. In summer, air-conditioning is not an excessive luxury in Tajikistan. At all.