The medieval monuments of Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are the main reason tourists visit Uzbekistan. Together, these 4 cities represent medieval Islamic architecture at its finest. Only Esfahan in Iran surpasses them.
We haven’t written full guides about the big 3 yet, as it is always been Caravanistan’s policy to highlight the lesser-known parts of Central Asia, and we still haven’t finished with that. But here is a rough guide to get you started in your trip planning process.
Table of Contents
Who is it for? How to plan a trip?
The Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan are a destination for the culture maven. Older tourists, with or without a package tour, enjoy it most. Shoppers, photographers and sightseers with a proclivity for architecture, crafts and history – you’re gonna love it.
Backpackers, on the other hand, are often disappointed. Especially the under-30’s. They find these cities too neatly restored, too busy with tourists.
Trip planning
Samarkand and Bukhara are the 2 must-sees. Bukhara is more lively and less scrubbed out than Samarkand, and it has more monuments in general. However long you are staying in either, make sure you stay a day longer in Bukhara than in Samarkand.
Khiva is tiny: it takes most people 2-3 hours to see everything in the old town. It is also far away from the other cities. If you are planning to see more of Qaraqalpaqstan or are heading down to Konye-Urgench in Turkmenistan, include it in your itinerary, definitely. But if you are planning to travel all the way west just to see Khiva, make sure you have a big interest in what is on offer to avoid disappointment.
Tashkent has something to offer to every type of tourist, but, like many big cities, her dwarfing proportions can be off-putting. It’s a city that needs a lot of time before she is willing to reveal her charms. I advise to either take that time, or move on quickly.
For practical details: we have written elsewhere on transport and when to go to Uzbekistan.
Tashkent
Levelled to the ground by a disastrous earthquake in 1966, Tashkent, Central Asia’s most populous city is a monument to Soviet ideology as it stood in the 1960’s. It is a metropolis missing none of the trappings of modern life, only dunked in a greasy Oriental-Soviet sauce.
Fascinating glimmers of Old Tashkent still remain, while most of its musea won’t bowl you over. This is a city for the Sovietophile, the anthropologist of the 21st century, the dedicated flaneur who sees beauty where others see concrete.
Samarkand
Samarkand: an evocative name that draws millions of visitors. Old buildings like the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda are stunning. Sadly, their surroundings have been scrubbed clean, and beyond the highlights, Samarkand does not offer the same level of experience that Bukhara does, nor does it have the big-city dynamism of Tashkent.
Bukhara
Alternatively known as the Eastern Dome of Islam, Bukhara was always known as a place of learning. Even before the arrival of Islam, Buddhist monasteries were teaching students here. Islam is still much-feared in Uzbekistan, and the majority of madrassahs these days have closed down or been converted to museums.
The inner city is dominated by large tour groups and the service industry catering to them, but Bukhara remains Uzbekistan’s most instantly lovable city. Despite touristification, it has retained much of its magic, best sampled on early-morning strolls to avoid the heat and the other visitors.
Khiva
The isolated desert khanate of Khiva resisted Russian colonisation until 1873. Amazingly, the traditional architecture inside its walled city has remained completely intact, with some stunning examples of medieval Islamic architecture preserved. It is now a museum city preserved for tourism (new Khiva is built outside the walled city).
It also serves as the spectacular decor for local wedding videos.
Off the beaten track
Shahrisabz, the seat of Tamerlane’s power, was severely damaged in a government “beautification” campaign. While the main buildings are still there, every other part of the tourist experience has gone. We don’t recommend a visit unless you have a deep interest in architecture and history.
A yurtstay in the Kyzylkum desert and a homestay in the Nuratau mountains are the easiest ways to add some nature and interaction with locals to a trip dominated by historical sights.
Outdoor enthusiasts will prefer to discover the mountains above Tashkent or the Zaamin national park, while urban explorers can visit the ghost town of Angren.
Next destinations
Uzbekistan
- Ferghana Valley: Silk from Margilan & ceramics from Rishton. A traditional heartland.
- Qaraqalpaqstan: Aral Sea, Savitsky museum, and the fortresses of Khorezm.
- The South: Buddhist relics, and a village culture nestled in green uplands to escape the blazing summer heat.
Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan & Tajikistan
- South Kazakhstan: Shymkent is just across the border. From there, visit blossoming national parks or desert pilgrimage places
- Turkmenistan: a country like no other
- Northern Tajikistan: Sughd region has mountains and lakes as well as a bustling city.