Tajikistan - solo woman

[lissie45]

We had planned to travel the silk road this summer - but my partner collapsed with HAPE (high altitude pulmonary odema) on the way to Xiahe (China) - so we had to come home. He's fine now - but obviously won't ever be travelling the Pamir Highway.

I however still want to - I've been to 5000m before (in Nepal) - so am confident I can manage the altitude. My question is how is it for hitching- shared taxis for a solo "old" (50s) woman? I'll have practicsed my Russian by then - but it will be basic.

I'd like to cross via the Qolma Pass from Tashturgan - and would do the Pamir highway-Yagnob Valley- Dunshanbe - and probably exit to Tashkent to connect with my partner again. I'm thinking maybe 3 weeks from Kashgar - to Uzbeckistan?

I'd love to hear from any solo women who have travelled in the region.

[steven]

Hi lissie,

so sorry to hear about your husband. We have an article up about advice for solo women. In your case, I think it is a lot easier than it is for younger women. Being in your 50s excludes you from a lot of the cat calls and horny propositions younger women have to endure. Have a read here: http://caravanistan.com/safety/single-female-travelers/ esp the Tajikistan section.

Local women also sometimes need to drive the Pamir Highway solo.

[ChrisO]

Hi Lissie,

I spend a lot of time travelling on my own in the Pamirs and it is very safe (though I do speak both Tajik and Russian, which helps). I find the article of Caravanistan about Tajikistan and female travelling not appropriate. I feel a lot safer in Tajikistan than in Kyrgyzstan. Of course, all the advice provided on their post should be followed. Pamiri drivers will take good care of you and make sure you reach your destination safely.
Also, to go to Yagnob valley, you first need to reach Dushanbe and from there, go north to explore the yagnob area.

I wish you nice travels!!

[steven]

Hi Chris, which article do you mean?

This one? https://caravanistan.com/safety/single- ... travelers/

Just writing down what women tell me. I know it is just as bad in other countries. Seeing how you are over 50 you will have less issues as you have more status (you are presumed married and with kids and grand-children) and are less of a target for local men.

[AreWeThereYet?]

Hi Lissie

I'm a 31-year-old man that can pass as a Turk if I stop shaving for a little while, so I do blend in quite well in certain parts of Central Asia, but... I can still provide second hand experience!

Whilst on the Highway I shared rides with two female solo travellers, an 18-years-old girl from the Netherlands and a 50-something from Germany. Both were having a great time, and had no issues whatsoever. The girl mentioned that having a fake wedding ring (just a gold-looking band on the correct finger) managed to deter the most inquisitive people in Wakhan and other remote areas, and the German lady had no probs whatsoever, even with her questionable habit of opening her wallet and accidentally showing a fat wad of Tajik currency!

So, I suppose that, like everywhere, common sense will help you a long way.