Climbing Peak Chimtarga

[Markus]

Hi,

we want to climb Peak Chimtarga in the Fann Mountains. Is it possible to climb the peak without a rope? Are there crevasses or sections for abseiling? We have some experience with other 5.000er (Mount Kazbek, Elbrus) and we want to do the climb without a guide.

Thanks!

Markus

[Julia]

Hi.

It's not possible to climb Chimtarga peak without ropes.
There are many crevasses, inside the ice and rocks. Some of them can be invisible when covered with snow.
There is at least one section for abseiling. I believe only one if you take the easiest route of 2B category.
If take other routes of 4B category and more than there can be a few sections for abseiling.

[Markus]

Hi Julia,

thanks for the reply! Is it also dangerous to climb Peak Energia or Peak Zamok (without rope and guide)? Do you have any experiences?

Markus

[Julia]

Hi Markus

Energia and Zamok peaks are easier than Chimtarga. But you need ropes to climb them too.
You also need ice axes, crampons, helmets, gear for ropes system.
You need to know how to use ropes and gear, know climbing techniques.
Generally, climbing is supposed to be a dangerous type of activity.

I didn't climb those peaks. I was at the foot of Chimtarga and Energia peaks last year when I did hiking through Chimtarga pass.
I've done a few climbings in other mountains. But climbed only with a professional climbing instructor. I'm not big fan of it))
I like hiking and trekking more))

And what is your experience in rock climbing or mountaineering?
Just to understand if my ideas help you or not.

[Markus]

Hi Julia,

we have experiences with rock climbing and mountaineering. But we are only 2 persons. If there are crevasses, it`s better to go on a rope with 3 or 4. And I would like to go without rope and harness because of the weight...

Markus

[Julia]

Hi Markus

Maybe try Energia peak.
It's well described and seems the least dangerous among those peaks.
I met a couple who climbed it together only two people.
Some reports mention climbing in group of two people.
For this peak you need ropes because it's steep icy rock. Not because crevasses.
But have to carry heavy equipment anyway.

[mazeno]

> We have some experience with other 5.000er (Mount Kazbek, Elbrus)
i'm sorry for disturbing, but the experience of elbrus and kazbek sized it is a none experience. and it is not very wise to search advices on mountaineering on the internet, despite how experienced is the asked.

[Julia]

Mazeno,

I agree with you.
We don't know how experienced the topic starters. They mentioned rock climbing. Maybe they did 3B category. Maybe only routes without category. Not clear for me.

I hope that people who ask about climbing and other dangerous activities are wise enough to estimate their ability and make further deeper research.

[mazeno]

if someone describes his experience as elbrus and kazbek i wouldn't expect him claiming 6b.

[Markus]

Hi Julia & Mazeno,

thanks for your response! We want to do a hike for two weeks in the Fann Mountains and Yagnob Valley with our own tent and food. So we have enough stuff/food to carry. That`s the reason, that I asked for climbing without rope and harness...

And no worry, we have experiences in rock climbing with routes UIAA VI-VII. And we did other peaks in the alps, for example the Piz Bernina/Biancograt difficulty AD, I think in russian grade 2B/3A. The easiest routes Chimtarga, Energia and Zamok are 2B. Maybe that`s enough for us...

Markus