Pamir Highway on your own

[Kasia]

Sorry to dive into the off-topic side thread:

The questions I (52 yo female) was mostly asked in Tajikistan were:
- where is your husband? does he know that you are travelling alone?
- how much money do you make in your job? (interestingly, they assumed that I as a female had indeed a job)
- is it true that in your home country the government gives out 1.500 $ monthly for the unemployed, no questions asked?
- what car do you own?
- how much did your backpack cost?

I speak and understand enough russian for engaging in discussions like that, and mostly I enjoyed all talks and connections - especially in crammed shared taxis or with teenage girls (but they had completely different questions about everyday life, education...).

Safe travels!
Kasia

[Kalpazan]

Back to the topic. As you are speaking Russian I think you won't have any problems travelling on your own in Pamir. People are very hospitable and always willing to help there, only that you need to have a way to explain them what you want. On Caravanistan web site there is plenty of info to work out the details.

[Pedalling_Slow]

Since the Kyzyl-Art border is only used by tourists, does that mean it is not getting cleared of snow this winter? We’re hoping to cross from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan around February/early March.

[TheNonFlyingDutchman]

For some on-topic feedback:

Dushanbe-khailakhum or even Khorog, there are shared taxis leaving from the south of Dushanbe. Forgot the duration but prepare for at least 15hrs drive.

From Khorog to Iskashim you can probably find a local shared taxi in khorog, but no proper line services as far as I know. Still it was quite a busy part.

From Iskashim further into the wakhan nothing is organised, but hitchhiking this part I often saw 4WD’s functioning as shared taxis. They’re full to the notch mostly and don’t stop. But if there’s any way to fit you in, they will. Rates differ and are negotiable.

From Langar to Murghab: forget it you won’t find anything shared. There’s nothing there and it’s only traveled by the occasional tourist jeep or some trucks.

The northern route I know nothing about, and since I traveled to China I don’t know about after Murghab.

What I can tell you, is that traveling the Pamir alone is surely a lively adventure and definitely doable within the tourist season. Even on a small budget it’s doable but please pay for every homestay even if they keep refusing your money. Also consider paying some rides since these people have little opportunity to earn money otherwise. Also read into the very good pamir hitchhiking blogpost here.

One thing: don’t leave Dushanbe on the east side to get to Kailakhum. Nobody takes that route anymore and you’ll have a really hard time. I made this mistake haha. It’s beautiful though!

Also my most important tip: if you decide to hitchhike: expect to walk the whole route and see every car as a bonus. This gave me the right mindset to get to the finish line. More than once I hiked 25km a day. It was beautiful though.

[Lutnistas1969]

For some on-topic feedback:

Dushanbe-khailakhum or even Khorog, there are shared taxis leaving from the south of Dushanbe. Forgot the duration but prepare for at least 15hrs drive.

From Khorog to Iskashim you can probably find a local shared taxi in khorog, but no proper line services as far as I know. Still it was quite a busy part.

From Iskashim further into the wakhan nothing is organised, but hitchhiking this part I often saw 4WD’s functioning as shared taxis. They’re full to the notch mostly and don’t stop. But if there’s any way to fit you in, they will. Rates differ and are negotiable.

From Langar to Murghab: forget it you won’t find anything shared. There’s nothing there and it’s only traveled by the occasional tourist jeep or some trucks.

The northern route I know nothing about, and since I traveled to China I don’t know about after Murghab.

What I can tell you, is that traveling the Pamir alone is surely a lively adventure and definitely doable within the tourist season. Even on a small budget it’s doable but please pay for every homestay even if they keep refusing your money. Also consider paying some rides since these people have little opportunity to earn money otherwise. Also read into the very good pamir hitchhiking blogpost here.

One thing: don’t leave Dushanbe on the east side to get to Kailakhum. Nobody takes that route anymore and you’ll have a really hard time. I made this mistake haha. It’s beautiful though!

Also my most important tip: if you decide to hitchhike: expect to walk the whole route and see every car as a bonus. This gave me the right mindset to get to the finish line. More than once I hiked 25km a day. It was beautiful though.

Thank you very much for this information.
The trip is planned between 28 July and 15 August 2024.
If it's only possible, I try to sleep in a homestay, so that the locals can earn something.
I also don't give candies to the kids, so as not to spoil their teeth.
I need to analyze all possibilities. I don't rule out that I will eventually rent a car with the driver ( because it will be practical ), but I would like to avoid it. Not only for the reasons I wrote about earlier.
Also, I would like to do 2 or 3 trekking and I don't know what should I do with the driver and his car in this time.
In Kyrgyzstan I rented a car with the driver for a week. On the one hand, it was very practical, but on the other, I often felt a bit limited because he already wanted to keep going. The next two weeks without car and the driver were more relaxed.
I often have the impression that the driver wants to do everything very quickly. We arrive at some beautiful place where I could spend a few hours, but I'm limited to one or two. That's "killing" me, so I try to travel on my own.

[TheNonFlyingDutchman]

For some on-topic feedback:

Dushanbe-khailakhum or even Khorog, there are shared taxis leaving from the south of Dushanbe. Forgot the duration but prepare for at least 15hrs drive.

From Khorog to Iskashim you can probably find a local shared taxi in khorog, but no proper line services as far as I know. Still it was quite a busy part.

From Iskashim further into the wakhan nothing is organised, but hitchhiking this part I often saw 4WD’s functioning as shared taxis. They’re full to the notch mostly and don’t stop. But if there’s any way to fit you in, they will. Rates differ and are negotiable.

From Langar to Murghab: forget it you won’t find anything shared. There’s nothing there and it’s only traveled by the occasional tourist jeep or some trucks.

The northern route I know nothing about, and since I traveled to China I don’t know about after Murghab.

What I can tell you, is that traveling the Pamir alone is surely a lively adventure and definitely doable within the tourist season. Even on a small budget it’s doable but please pay for every homestay even if they keep refusing your money. Also consider paying some rides since these people have little opportunity to earn money otherwise. Also read into the very good pamir hitchhiking blogpost here.

One thing: don’t leave Dushanbe on the east side to get to Kailakhum. Nobody takes that route anymore and you’ll have a really hard time. I made this mistake haha. It’s beautiful though!

Also my most important tip: if you decide to hitchhike: expect to walk the whole route and see every car as a bonus. This gave me the right mindset to get to the finish line. More than once I hiked 25km a day. It was beautiful though.

Thank you very much for this information.
The trip is planned between 28 July and 15 August 2024.
If it's only possible, I try to sleep in a homestay, so that the locals can earn something.
I also don't give candies to the kids, so as not to spoil their teeth.
I need to analyze all possibilities. I don't rule out that I will eventually rent a car with the driver ( because it will be practical ), but I would like to avoid it. Not only for the reasons I wrote about earlier.
Also, I would like to do 2 or 3 trekking and I don't know what should I do with the driver and his car in this time.
In Kyrgyzstan I rented a car with the driver for a week. On the one hand, it was very practical, but on the other, I often felt a bit limited because he already wanted to keep going. The next two weeks without car and the driver were more relaxed.
I often have the impression that the driver wants to do everything very quickly. We arrive at some beautiful place where I could spend a few hours, but I'm limited to one or two. That's "killing" me, so I try to travel on my own.

Sounds like you might want to hire just the car! I met two wonderful german lads who did that. They had all the time and flexibility they wanted, and even picked me up multiple times on the way . Or find one or two people on the forum who’d like to share the car and costs.