I'm a solo female backpacker who successfully crossed the Rimdan-Gwadar border just two days ago (1 Apr 2024). I thought I should report my findings as I was adamant on not using the Zahedan-Quetta border and didn't find much info on this border.
PRE-CROSSING
5 days before I decided to travel to Pakistan, I applied for a visa-on-arrival on the official website. In your application, you will be asked for your entry and exit points. It is crucial to ensure that you indicate the right border, because if not, you are likely to be refused and redirected to the Zahedan-Quetta border which is 1) far, 2) troublesome with an escort, 3) just too much work. The Zahedan-Quetta border is most commonly used and extensively written about-- you've probably heard of it and similarly want to avoid it.
There is some speculation that you will be asked for an LOI (Letter of Invitation) by border officials, but personally, I wasn't going to pay some exorbitant fee charged by some tour agencies and so I only furnished my application with a PDF of a hotel booking which I cancelled immediately after. However, I later changed my mind and decided to couchsurf so I prepared a note on my phone that has my host's full name, ID number, address and contact number. This discrepancy was not brought up later.
Follow the instructions on the website, make the payment and you should receive an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) in your inbox within a day. I got mine a few minutes after, saved the document on my phone and did not print it out. In case you're wondering, I hold a Singapore passport. Additionally, I advise checking the opening times of the border. It was Nowruz and Ramadan in this period, so I'd asked around for some calls to be made.
JOURNEY TO THE BORDER
I made my way to Chabahar, spent a few nights there and on 1st April 2024, I set out early at 8am to take a shared taxi to Nowbandiyan. I had unexpectedly ran out of rials, so my host paid for me but I believe it was about 3 USD at most. The taxi filled up quickly and it took an hour to arrive.
In Nowbandiyan, I connected with another local who kindly drove me to the border at no cost. Otherwise, a private taxi would cost about 20USD. Even though I was discouraged from hitchhiking, I think it's do-able as there are trucks who are make their way there so use your judgement. It took another hour of driving to the border.
AT THE IRAN BORDER
The officials here insisted to see my Pakistan visa. I showed them my ETA document and they made some calls to check, apparently to the Zahedan-Quetta border as well. I was anxious and so it felt like forever but I probably only waited 30 minutes. There was nobody else there. They photocopied my passport, printed it out on paper and stamped my exit --it is needed to enter Pakistan but I had no entry stamp in Iran.
AT THE PAKISTAN BORDER
Unfortunately, the officials weren't as pleasant (frankly speaking, quite rude) and they conducted a manual search of all the items in my backpack. From here on, you will be accompanied by a military escort, and for me, he did speak some English and tried to help me out so that was nice enough.
I presented my exit stamp, then was brought to a different office where I was asked where I was going. So I gave them my host's details on my phone. They took a few photos of my phone screen and passport. My passport was then stamped and I was officially let into Pakistan!! I was worried and sleepless the night before, so I was very happy it all worked out. They also printed out a copy of my visa and gave it to me (was also emailed).
JOURNEY TO KARACHI
The bus terminal was only about 200m away from the border office, it's impossible to miss. My escort offered me a ride on his motorbike and someone even came along with a pushcart but it was near so I walked. At the terminal, I asked around to change my currency. You will not be able to pay for your ticket with your credit card (even though it is widely accepted in Pakistan), so make sure you have USD or Pakistani rupees. I changed 20 USD for 4000 rupees which is a lousy rate but I was given the same rate in Nowbandiyan so I accepted. The bus ticket cost 3000 rupees (~10 USD). Luckily for me, the next bus was leaving within a few minutes so I didn't wait long. Once I got on the bus, my escort left me.
It generally takes about 12h to arrive at Yousuf Goth terminal. Bear in mind that Pakistan is 1.5h ahead of Iran, so you lose more time. It is not ideal to arrive after midnight, but when I asked for a later bus timing, they told me there wasn't (which I don't believe to be true). They probably just wait for buses to fill up to a certain capacity, and of course the escort wants to be rid of me.
I was the only woman on board, the other passengers were all men apart from a Romanian guy also travelling the same way. I'm glad he was there though, because the stares were intense and not too comfortable. If you're a woman, perhaps consider partnering up.
In actuality, my bus took 14h to arrive because the drivers smuggled fuel and they took their own sweet time draining the tanks in the bus. Welcome to Pakistan!
We reached at 3.30am at the terminal which is more like a huge parking space for buses. I was let into an "office" (an enclosed space with locked shutters) to wait and could have slept there if I wanted to. Thankfully though, I had someone to pick me up and I could finally conclude this long, long day of travelling.These are all the details I could think of, but if you'd like to reach me privately, email me (Sarah) at [email protected]
I advise keeping up-to-date with the WhatsApp group chats for travellers to Iran and Pakistan. This blog post was also very helpful: https://thespicytravelgirl.com/gabd-rimdan-border/